GX2SHDXVB02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Followed the video and installed the new Jazz board. The board cam in 1 piece which had to be separated into two pieces, but the scored area on the board made it less intimidating. At the same time I replaced the two incandescent lamps in the refrigerator area with LED lamps. Getting the housing for the control board apart was the most difficult part, installing the replacement board was a breeze.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

We snapped the new one on correctly this time.

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

I pulled the refrigerator out from the wali slowly so not to damage the water line to the ice maker. Then with a nut driver I removed all the screws holding the back plate on. Being careful not to kink the water line, I used the adjustable wrench to losen the water line feed nut and the nut that goes to the line to the icemaker. Then I removed the screws holding the valve in place finished unhooking the water lines with my fingers. I then got the new valve and finger tightend the main water supply nut to the inlet side, then I pushed the plastic supply tube going to the icemaker into the valve. The new valve does not use a nut to attach the tubing it is a presure fit very easy.

The part came the next day, very quick. The wrong size ended up in box we recieved. The part # we ordered was correct, just a mix up in the packaging process. I called and the customer service dept. had a new correct crisper pan delivered to my door two days later. Even with the mix up it was very fast and a good price compared to other sites. I would order again in the future.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.