GI7FVCXWA01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The only real difficultly I had replacing the ice door was getting the exterior trim off the freezer door. You have to push down on the bottom of the trim to release the tabs that hold it in place. After removal of the trim, the rest of the repair is pretty straight forward.
The ice door kit solved the problem!

Removed and disconnected the icemaker, cleaned all areas and disassembled the failed parts. Reassembled with the new parts inlcuded with the purchased package and resinstalled the unit. Started the unit and chedked for proper operation. Successful repair.

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

unscrewed old filter, screwed in new....good to go!

I was amazed when Fed Ex pulled up to our front door the following day after I ordered the parts, I was wondering what they were delivering and to my amazement it was the parts I had ordered from parts select the previous day , thank you so much , you are awesome. My 73 year old husband who is a 5 year cancer survivor had the part installed and we were ready to start making ice within 1 hour.He went by the installation information sent in by your customers. Thank you all, Jo Mesplay

Turn off the water to the unit. Disconnect the plug on wiring from the old valve.
They always recommend you disconnect the electric (unplug) the unit while doing this work.
Disconnect the water lines from the old valve by pushing the water line slightly into the flange on the valve, it releases the line from the flange.
Hold the flange rim against the valve seat and pull, you may have to jiggle the water line a little while pulling to remove it.
Push the water lines into the ports on the new valve, turn on the water and check for leaks.
If no leaks, plug the wire connections onto the new valve, reconnect it to the unit and turn the power back on.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

I followed the video. If there is an exact opposite of handyman or mechanic, it would fit me. I don't fix things well and I have very little patience for fixing things.
I fixed this easy by following the video. The first side took about 30 minutes because I was super cautious. The second side took less than 5
minutes because it was really easy.

Just plugged it in

Simply removed the phillips head screw and put the bushing and washer and coupling back in place and replaced the screw. Hardest part was breaking the screw loose to begin with. After that it was a snap. Less than 15 mintues and i was crushing ice again. Ordered two of the couplings so I have a spare when this one snaps. I think this is a re-curring problem for this model.

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I received the wrong part - had to pay returnin shipped and restock fee. Lost out on dealing with this company. Went to Whirlpool site and got correct light for my refrigerator

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!