GS6NHAXVB05 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

It was the right part at the right time. I had ordered parts through the retailer from Whirlpool but they were not right. I found the part number on the Whirlpool website and ordered it from you. Once it came it was a thirty second fix. Thanks.

J. Keith Miller

1. Remove the ice box
2. Unscrew the two Phillips screws on the base of the ice box compartment
3. Lift up the coupling and shaft (be careful because there is a spring between shaft and coupling and washer)
4. Remove old coupling
5. Replace with new coupling and remember to put back the spring
6. Insert back shaft with coupling and washer
7. Screw back on the Phillips screws
8. Replace back the icebox

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

I removed the cap from the filter pushed a lever and removed fliter. I replaced the old filter, removed the caps on the new one and slid it into channel after replacing the outer cap. I removed water from the spigot for 4 mins. and it was ready to go. I pushed the reset button to get the green light to come on.

Opened the box, removed the old shelf, attached the new one.
Is that easy or what?

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Just put the new one in.

I got model number off my unit and order the part. That was after trying a lot of different filters first. I did a rush order so I got it in 2 days. Pulled the unit out to shut the water off. Then took the back off so I could take the 2 screws that hold the water value . That way I wouldn't have to go back and forth. Now I went to the front. I already had had the vent cover at the bottom of the unit off. I had a head lap on so to make it easier to see under the unit. Then I use the nut driver or you can use 1/4 inch drive ratchet with sockets. To take the 2 screws out that hold the filter housing. Then lift the spring wire that is on the left side of the release botton. Then push the wire up out of the way. Reach back and pull the water value forward so you have slack in the water lines. Now you can pull the fliter housing out to you. Now release the 2 water lines by pushing down on the rings around the water lines and hold while you pull the water lines out. Now the old water filter housing is free you can set it to the side. I inspected the new filter housing for any deformities and cracks before I started installing. Now I hooked the water lines up by pushing them into the right size spring ring hole. Once lines was all the way in I pulled back on the water lines to make sure they were locked in place. Then I put a new water filter in and turned the water on to make sure of no leaks. Then I put everything back together in the reverse order I took it apart. Then I check the spicket to make sure everything was working right. After that I was able to push the refrigerator back in and then wipe everything up and I was done.

change light bulbs

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

First I removed all food in freezer.Then removed selves and hanger brackets.Then the back panel and light cover.Then I unplugged motor but before this I unplugged refrigerator from the wall.Removed motor from bracket after pulling of fan. Reversed the order to install motor and put back together

Removed broken tracks, installed new tracks. Had to file off two knobs on each track that prevented the tracks from seating properly. Installed easily and locked into place once the knobs were gone.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Took the broken cap off. Actually it practically fell off. Put the new cap in place, turned it to the right and Presto! it locked in and works fine. It took longer to get it out of the box than it did to install it :)