GX5FHDXVQ05 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

The can holder was worthless for our family. I lifted out the bin and replaced it with the new bin that can hold gallons of milk.

Took the new door seal out of the box, layed it out as straight as possible heated it with hair dryer 4 1hour took the old 1 out by hand and replaced it with new one no tools needed 10 min job

well, first, after calming down i removed the glass from my sink (this took a half hour). then i went to the computer and looked for jenn-air parts. the part-select site came up. the site was very easy to use and although i usually leave things like this for my husband to do i decided to order the part myself, which i did.
the trick was finding something on hand to cover the tops of the crispers which were both full of vegetables. i innovated and used a shallow broiler pan and its lid which covered 90% of both the crispers. the part came in five days unwrapping the part was easy, cleaned it with windex (no sink soaking this time) and inserted it on top of crispers............totally easy!!!!!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I just had to exchange the bucket, right part the first time.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

unplugged the unit pulled it away from the wall removed the lower panel removed the drain installed the new replacement . removed the wiring harness and replaced it with the new one replaced the panel and plugged back in

I tested the ice maker first and got no response. So I bought the new ice maker and unplugged the connector in the back, loosened the 2 screws up top and took the bottom screw out. I took out the old one and then plugged the new one in and hung it back on the 2 loosened screws and put the bottom screw in and tightened the screws. I have to say it’s working great! Have plenty of ice again. Saved a lot of money by doing it myself. Buy your original model number part from Parts Select.

Old gasket was pulled off with ease. New gasket came folded in-half in cardboard box and was flattened in several places. It was reshaped with ease with the heat from ny wife's hair dryer. Insrallatint took about 5 minutes and seal was perfect. Took less than 15 minutes total.

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.

I watched video for repair and it went just like it showed. piece of cake

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.