GI6SDRXXY04 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed and disassembled the broken frame. I cut a six inch piece of coat hanger and folded in half and crimped together. Then I took pliers and made a hook that I hooked into the metal strip in the back of the refrigerator that holds the upper shelves. After replacing the frame, center rail and glass I bent the wire up under the back of the frame to provide a support. The back of the frame is weak and has no center support.

I broke the glass in the frig and found partselect and ordered the new glass and had it in 2 days. Very fast shipping.

A jar was dropped on the chef's pantry lid and cracked the lid. I unhinged one side of the lid from the pantry drawer by gently pushing outward on one of the hinge pins. The lid slid out easily. I then reversed the process using the new lid and it went in smoothly. Be sure to align the lid so it rests on the shoulder of the pantry drawer. Simple task, no tools, and less than 5 minutes effort. The replacement part was perfect.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

I ordered the wrong part for my refrigerator. The refund processed easily. However, the email that I was promised with return instructions has not been sent. I have asked several times about how to return this part and total silence from partselect. I'm ready to throw this replacement bin in the trash.

Empty drawer and take out . remove glass shelf and front and rear shelf braces. remove 2 screws holding pantry end cap to fridge. remove rear bracket by unsnapping clips. remove temp control arm. and reattach to new end cap. reinstall rear bracket to fridge and align end cap, align screws and tighten. reinstall drawers and shelf brackets. replace glass shelf. and reattach lid to brackets. Open beer and enjoy success.

I easily ordered the part. When it came in, I just shut off the water, disconnected the electricity, and followed instructions to remove shelving and drawers. Then removed the rear interior cover, removed the old water inlet valve and installed the new one. Just a couple moldex wire connections and the 3 water lines in and out. Don't know if this is still ok, but so simple a caveman could do it. Sorry Geico.

Looked online for instructions. I had to remove the shelves from inside the frig, then pop off part of the right inside back wall. The way the 3 water lines attached to the inlet valve was a terrible design. There are plastic little collars that need to be pushed back to release the water lines from the old valve, then when you install the new valve, you need to push them back to reattach the water lines. Once installed, one had a leak. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the little plastic collar to disengage. I couldn't push the line in further and I couldn't get it back out. Ended up cutting the line off at the valve just to get it out. Then had to cut out the piece that was still stuck in the valve. Tried to install it again and it leaked even more. Ended up putting the old valve back in and throwing away the $130 new inlet valve because there are no returns on electrical parts. Total waste of time and money ! ! ! Not happy to say the least.

The ice selector solenoid was a snap to replace.
You do have to pull the ice maker out. I looked on you tube to find out how to take off the wire cover and how to release the ice maker so it will slide out.
Firmly grab it and pull try to keep it level while pulling and it will slide out better.
After removed its 2 small screws and a release clamp to get the old part off and snap the new one in replace screws and wires.
The toughest part of this was figuring out that it was the solenoid in the first place.
Best of luck do it yourselfers like me.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

you tube video was most helpful. after getting new part and disassembling old ice maker, you have to change out the wiring harness. Reinstall ice maker, don't worry about the timing of the unit as it will do this itself, may take 10 hours to produce ice, mine took about 2 hours to go through its' cycles and give me ice. It is running great

Pulled the whole assembly out and unscrewed the Ice maker and old wire harness loose. pulled one wire at a time loose and put the new one in place one wire at a time so not to get them wrong. Then the ground wire I cut and stripped and used a wire nut to connect the two green wires together. Otherwise you would have to take more things off to get to the 1/4 nut on the ground wire. Then put the three screws back in the ice maker bottom.Slid it back in place and plugged in the new wire harness. And put the plastic cover back in place to cover the wires. You can also look on U-Tube to see how it is done. They just do not show the new harness I was sent. I guess the ice maker I got fit other models.