G25EFSB23S5 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

After removing the shelves and drawers to gain access to the End Cap unit. I removed the screws and detached the unit which was a little tricky without any actual drawing details. After removing the unit I had to undo the plastic temperature control arm without breaking same. I then transferred the shelve draw slide and reconnected the control arm assembly to the new End Cap unit . At that point it was a simple installation, the drawer works better then new. Note: I did find some loose packing material behind the End Cap assembly unit that might have caused the failure of the drawer and door mechanism during its original factory fabrication. Other than that the project was a complete success. Dick S.

Took off old cover 3 screws...removed metal track and 2 other plastic sliding bars for air flow..put on new cover and carefully put back deli cover on plastic pins..easy fix...lousy design by maytag again! Thanks to PartSelect easy and prompt service and delivery!

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Broken bottom drawer lid mount

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

The repair was very simple, you just remove the existing part that is held in place by two holes in the lid and insert the new lid. very easy.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I was getting small sections of ice and a snow like build - up around the freezer door. I thought that the door was not sealing tight enough and that the cold air was leaking out. The original door gasket appeared to not have any flexibility anymore and was getting hard. I ordered a new door gasket from PartsSelect. When the gasket arrived it was in a large enough box and that saved me some time as the gasket was not "crushed" to the point where there were a lot of kinks in the gasket. I used a hair dryer on low to warm the gasket and stretch it out some. The freezer door required me loosening four small screws and lifting the door off. I placed the door on an old blanket so not to scratch the finish. It was easy to remove the old gasket and after doing so I cleaned the track where the new gasket was to go with isopropyl alcohol, Once cleaned, I placed the gasket over the channel in the door where the old gasket had been and started installing the new gasket. I started at the corners and you can feel the gasket snap into place. Once the four corners were done I started at the top and installed the gasket the rest of the way. You can feel it snap into place. as you work your way around the gasket channel. Once the gasket was in place I placed the door on the four small grooves where the door had been and tightened up the screws. I made sure that no white from the inside of the freezer door was showing after the gasket was in place and that the gasket had some "spring" to it. The door was back on, the gasket was tight and it appeared to be a good seal. Around 12 hours later I checked the freezer and there was no more ice or "snow" on the edges of the freezer. While the gasket was not inexpensive, it is a genuine OEM piece, and the gasket is a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator!
I hope this was helpful...

Honestly, so simple . Removed the fruit / veggie drawers, glass shelf and the supports for that shelf. Couple of screws and nuts and it was off. As stated before... the most "thought goes into attaching the linkage for the temp adjustment on the right side . GREAT opportunity to CLEAN the up the fridge a bit!! Parts Select made this such a no brainer. Their Customer Service was really an added bonus!!

It was quit simple. I removed the draw and the shelves above the pantry unit. Once everything was removed (2min), I removed the one side pantry bracket ( 2 screw's). Put in the new pantry bracket and screw's and I was done. I'll give it ten minutes total. easy button Thank you

First, I took out the glass tray along with the two slide out compartments that are part of that assembly. Then I used a small socket set to take out the three screws that hold the part in place and along with the part a plastic connector comes out with it that adjusts the temp of the bin area. Line up the holes on the slider and two screws come out that hold the slider to the part. Disconnet the plastic piece in the back that adjusts are flow (press down plastic holders) Reattach the slider, snap the plastic piece on the back and reassemble. Sounds complicated but once you are in there, its self explanatory.