ED5LVAXWS01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the icemaker from the freezer by removing two horizontal screws holding it to the side wall, and one vertical screw holding the front to a bracket coming off the side wall. Then I used a flat screwdriver to unlock the electrical plug. (After doing this, I realized that this wasn't necessary at all, and this part could have been changed just as easily without removing the icemaker.) On the front, there is a white cover with Ice Maker Plus. Use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tangs and remove the cover. There are three screws in the corners that once removed, will allow the motor assy. to be gently pulled straight out. On the back of the part, you will see many gold lands that the timer touches. I don't think there was anything wrong with my motor. I had two spots where the gold plating was worn off, so I suspect it was not making contact, and the whole process would stop. Slide the new part in place making sure the teeth on the gears line up (not a big deal), and secure with the screws. Install cover and you're done. Mine has been making ice like it was brand new.

The refrigerator would not come back on after the defrost cycle unless I smacked the housing around the controls. Since it would come back on after stricking the housing I knew it must be a sticking relay. I used the exploded drawings from Parts Select to determine how to disassemble the housing. Once the part arrived I swapped it out in about 10-14 minutes. The drawings made the job simple. Thanks Parts Select!!! -neal

Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a simular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.

I discovered that the freezer was not defrosting automatically and the condenser coil was freezing up blocking the flow of cold air to the refrigerator side. I first replaced the thermostat thinking that it would be an easy fix but needless to say it didn't work. My indicator that it was not a successful repair was the continuing blinking of the filter change light on the control panel. Ultimately I had to replace the control board assembly to solve the issue.

I just removed a few screews and took the cover out of the ice box. Put my voltage meter to the refrigeator and realized the the unit was not defrosting...I then got the part number and entered it in on your web site. A few days later my part arrived. I put the part on and in just about 20 minutes I was up an running again...Thank you Part Select for fast and great service. I own 35 rental properties and having a online appliance parts store really saves me a lot of time and money.

Thank you
Curtis Hall

Disconnect power to refrigerator. Removed all food from Freezer. Removed all Shelves and shelf clips. Used phillips screwdriver and removed 6 screws from lower rear panel covering evaporator coil. Removed panel. Pulled plastic fan blade off top of motor shaft. Unclip top front of black motor retainer clip which then allowed the rear clip to unhook. Removed clip. Then removed 3 wires from fan motor, noting proper location for replacement. Slide the fan motor out to the left. Installed new motor. Reinstalled clip, hooking rear side first. Then rehooked the 3 wires. Slide fan blade back on top until secure. Tested everything at this point before reassembling rear panel. Then replace rear panel, replace the 6 screws, replace shelf clips and shelves and replace food. Very easy to do and saved about $150 over a service call to troubleshoot and re-visit to install after getting part

Removed plastic door over ice maker remove 4 screws and slide unit out after disconecting pull apart elect. Plug. Pop off side gear cover install on new and slide in, reconnecting electric plug as you go.

Dog chewes up the original part. Got the replacement , put it on the filter turned to lock in place and tried tp pull out old filter ( same procedure has been done multiple times successfully) part broke instantly upon putting pressure tom pull out filter. Sent back to you the next day for replacement.

Replaced 8 cube ice maker assembly. Contrary to instructions I 1st removed 2 screws on the flapper door 2 removed 3 screws in bottom and 1 screw on right side bottom and pulled shelf out unplugged plug and lifted assembly off put new one on shelf plugged it in and slid it back into place replaceing. screws. was done in 10 min. start to finish . so far seems to have solved the problem.

The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.

removed the clip that the motor was attached too put the new motor back on reinstalled the clip back on the fridge plugged the wire harness in and works perfect now . it was easier to remove the clip than to try to install the motor by itself its just to tight and you cant get in there

Removed the icemaker to see if I could determine problem; motor was seized; got part numbers and ordered from you; parts arrived next day (even though overnight delivery wasnt' requested - so THANK YOU!); compared new parts to original to be sure of fit; reassembled unit; reinstalled in freezer, and waited for the sound of water filling the tray. Producing like brand new again! Cancelled the service call w/ Sears for the following week (when it was convenient for them) Loved your service!

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

My Kitchenaid side by side freezer has an ice dispenser on the door that would not dispense ice. The electronic door opened and the motor would come on with a repeated clicking noise. The Auger would turn with a few ice cubes in the bin, but not under load. After ruling out a clogged chute, I figured that the motor was stripped. The rod that turns the auger is a hexagon shaped piece, much like a screw driver you would use with your drill. After years of breaking down ice, it stripped the hexagon key in the motor, and would just spin under load. Now, PAY ATTENTION TO THIS PART. I looked online for a repair and saw a very similar motor repair that involved taking off the front panel and electronics. I did this, and ran into a solid piece of plastic with no way to get to the motor. I then looked at the inside of the freezer door more carefully. About 2/3 down I saw a small panel held in place by four 1/4 inch hex nuts. What was a 15 minute job, cost me over an hour removing and replacing the front of the freezer. Anyway, the replacement motor fixed the problem without a hitch, and now we have ice. Of note, this is the second repair of this ice maker system, after first having to replace the ice maker itself. And, this the second Kitchenaid built in refrigerator of this model as our first had ice maker issues and was returned as a recall. It is only 5 years old.

Emiter blinking red; ice maker stopped working. Called appliance repair, said electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Quoted me $275, including parts. Ordered part at partselect.com, installed in 15 min and ice maker started producing ice. Also discovered on other online forums that this part is a common failure on these model refrigerators. Very easy to swap out, plug & play. Make sure to unplug appliance before performing repair due to shock risk.