ET0MSRXTB01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Used angle screwdriver to tighten.

Replacement was very easy. Pulled the broken drawer and slid the new one in. Less than 2 minutes. . . . . . The only problem I had was the original part I ordered was broken in shipment. I called partselect and they were very helpful. They gave me a refund and had a new one shipped the same day and I received it in less than 2 days. I don't think I have ever had that good of service from anyone I have ever done business with. . . . . . John l. H. C. Arizona

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

Followed recommendations from others but went with most likely by percentage = defrost timer kit. Did not solve issue. Then went with bi-metal thermostat and that did not fix the problem. Tested the thermostat as recommended on line and old part was bad, new part ok. Then I saw on line that I should have listened for fan operation. I checked and found the fan motor to be defective. Replaced the motor and refrigerator worked fine. Both the motor and bi-metal thermostat were required. Should have checked fan operation first.

I shut the unit off for about ten hours and when I turned it back on and set the temperatures for the freezer and refrigerator it has been working great.I will keep the part in case it happens again.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

My Whirlpool refrigerator frezzer was not defrosting and the refrigator was not cooling. I followed the symptom parts advise (Defrost Timer Kit and the Bimetl-Def)of P/S. I pulled out the refrigerator from it inclosure and unpluged it, (note the shelf supports, the thinner ones are on the left side) I remove the shelfs and their supports,I removed the interior back cover of the frezzer, using a hair dryer I melted the frozen ice from the frezzer coile. Once all the ice was melted away, I cut off the old BIMETL-DEF and attacth the new BIMETL-DEF making sure the color wires are match correctly and using electrical connection plugs and electric tape I reconnected the wires. (2) I followed the video instruction for replacing the Defrost Timer Kit I found it to be quite easy to follow. The most deficult part was trying to position my body to remove the screws. I used an old CREDIT CARD to remove the face of the Refrigerator control buttons in order to access the compartment which house the Defrost Timer kit. I removed the old Defrost time kit and replaced it with the new one (following the Video instruction). I replace the frezzer cover inserting the lower four screws then using an old Credit Card I forced the top end of the frezzer cover under its retaing wall. I then replace the remaining two screws. JOB DONE

With the help of the website I was able to verify that the part I removed (in the area of the clicking sound) was probably the part required for replacement. I ordered it, installed it... IT WORKS (I knew it the moment I plugged in the power cord and heard the compressor kick on). Saved me from buying a new fridge or calling a repairman. I'm a 58 year old woman with no appliance experience. I watched the videos and installed the part without any trouble. Thank you PartSelect for your easy to use website instructions and helpful hints.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

unplug freg.took everything out.pulled out shelves and pulled out back panel.their was my part i had to replace.

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.