8ED5FHKXVY04 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Super-easy... First, empty refrigerator door. Then, just remove the bolt that goes through the cover over the top hinge. This exposes three more small bolts. Remove these and the top hinge assembly will lift off. Lift door off. Remove cam from door and lower hinge, slip new cams on, and reassemble. The hardest part was pulling all of the junk stuff out of the refrigerator door. Who know you could accumulate so much salad dressing?

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.

the piece fit perfectly and delivery was within a couple days. very satisfied.

Ordered gasket through this site pulled old gasket off, because my conquest had no screws on lining, Put new gasket on top and bottom first and kind of forced the edges into groove using heat gun cause gave me a little problem. But overall, it worked to perfection! Now to buy other gasket for refrigerator door!

My fridge was not cooling properly as I would have to tap the thermostat at times to get it to kick on again. Ordered the temperature control thermostat from this site t and watched video on how to install. Not hard at all and did it in under an hour. Fridge is working like new..

Emptied door of food jars etc. Used socked on top plate. Removed door and placed on a flat surface. Used socket to take out cam on the bottom of the door. Replaced worn cam. Replaced nylon sleeve on the top of the refrigerator door with needle nose pliers. Placed door in the bootom slot with the new cam in place. Placed top plate in the new nylon sleeve on the door. Replaced screws with socket wrench.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

The repair video was a great help in this specific repair and matched my refrigerator model exactly. The only issue was an apparent design change in the thermostat that I received. The location of the electrical leads has changed. It might be worth mentioning this in the video. Polarity is not an issue in this case, but if it was, it would be worth noting in the video. So far the refrigerator has been operating normally.

Removed old thermostat and replaced with new one. The video link in the shipping email was great - really detailed even though it was a simple fix.