8ED2FHKXVA02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I FOLLOWED A U TUBE VIDEO. IT WAS ALMOST PERFECT FOR MY SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR.

The repair consisted of lifting up the drawer cover and replacing it. Why the 60 minutes to do that? It took 58 minutes to clean the refrigerator.

put new ones in place.

The new thermostat assembly installed quite easily, just a couple of screws, but the thermostat probe however was kind of a pain in the rear. The probe is about 3 feet long and you have to remove a plastic sleeve from the old part and re-install on the new probe, it fits very tight and takes some time to do. Overall it was a very easy fix.

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

First, imagine the frustration - I want an apple.... can barely open the drawer. Need carrots - the struggle. Celery? Wondering if I can do without..... the drawer's plastic has broken along where it slides along the guide rails, and it was a pain to open and close the drawer. First, as is my custom I went to Amazon, but couldn't find the part. There, however, I read a useful customer review that told me how to find the correct item, so I did that, input the part number into google, and VOILA - I got to this website. Excitedly, I input my credit card information and waited with eager anticipation (and a bit of trepidation - would it be the correct size?) for the drawer to arrive. A short time later, I found a large box at my front door. With joy, I took some scissors and opened the box, and then carefully used the scissors to cut the binding strap that was holding the protective cardboard wrap. My new drawer!! I gave it a quick clean, and then opened my fridge door all the way (this is an important step). I pulled out the old, broken drawer, and carefully inserted the new. It fit perfectly!! This took about 15 seconds. I then took those apples, carrots, and celery (and a pomegranate and some lettuce) from the old, broken drawer and placed them tenderly into the new drawer. I slid the drawer closed, and then shut the fridge door. Mission accomplished! Last step was to throw the old broken drawer into the garbage - this was a very simple process as well.

After spending $250 on repair by calling appliance repair professional who changed relay in the fridge, the problem was not solved. I had to manually turn the switch off and on again to make sure my fridge would maintain its temperature. I read some similar problems on this web site, watched instalation video and decided to give it a try. Part came in very quick and it took me (female) 45 minutes to install the new part and refregirator worked like a champ. I would never call professional again until I try fixing the problem myself.

Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.

I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.

I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.

After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.

** Side Notes **

Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.

** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **

If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

(1) Remove the drawer by pulling it open until it catches. Push up gently on the bottom-rear of the drawer to lift it over the stop tabs in the drawer rail, and pull the drawer out completely. Note: You will need to push the refrigerator door gently to the fully open position to remove the drawer all the way. The door will open about 30 degrees further than where it comes to rest on its own when opened.
(2) Remove the shelf by lifting gently on the front and sliding it forward. Once the rear corners of the shelf are beyond the upper lip of the shelf rail, you can lift the shelf out of the rail, and turn it vertical to remove through the fridge door. Note: the glass in the shelf is meant to stay in, but if its old or damaged it may tip out when you turn the shelf on its side. So you may want to tape it in place before removing the shelf.
(3) Install the new shelf by repeating step 2 in reverse.
(4) Reinstall the drawer by repeating step 1 in reverse.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Super-easy... First, empty refrigerator door. Then, just remove the bolt that goes through the cover over the top hinge. This exposes three more small bolts. Remove these and the top hinge assembly will lift off. Lift door off. Remove cam from door and lower hinge, slip new cams on, and reassemble. The hardest part was pulling all of the junk stuff out of the refrigerator door. Who know you could accumulate so much salad dressing?