GB22DKXGW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I simply used my cordless drill with the right sized socket attachment to remove the screws. I left the door on which wasn't as difficult as I thought after reading other stories. I even had to contend with my three year old who wanted to know what was going on and if she could help. As my wife is deployed it falls to me to become both parents, watch after her and take care of chores. With all that said it still only took me about half an hour to replace the old gasket with the new one. As far as the gasket goes I wish the magnet was more powerful because there is still a gap unless you push and hold it closed for an extra second when closing the freezer. A pain but at least it is not torn. Before buying I recommend searching for a parts/service center that that talks about the whole part not just how to replace.

First we read all the comments by other handymen. This was really helpful. Then we took the door off and removed the old gasket with a nut driver. We tried to slip the new gasket under the edge with a thin spatula and didn't have much luck. Then we remembered someone saying that is was a good time to take the door apart and check to see if there was ice build up in the door. It was so bad we took out the frozen insulation and replaced it with new....$4.00 at the hardware store. While the door was apart we put the gasket on and put it in place and tightened it to the door. This worked very well for us. This saved us from having to buy a new refrigerator/ freezer. Thanks.

There were no instructions with the new gasket which made the job difficult. After great difficulty I called an appliance store and learned that the gasket should be soaked for several minutes in very hot water to make it pliable and easier to install. Also, the plastic insert that the gasket fits into should only be loosened and not removed when inserting the gasket. Lastly, the door should be removed and placed on a table to allow leverage to be applied. Installing it while still on the door is almost impossible.

replaced water valve and new icemaker.

I loosened(but did not remove) the 1/4" sheetmetal screws around the perimeter of the door liner. (they are numerous and they are hidden in the fold of the gasket) I removed the old gasket. With the screws still loose, I installed the new gasket. After insallation I re-tightened the liner screws. Several gaps were noted and eliminated by gently heating the gasket with a hair dryer. (be patient , it takes some time)

Removed screws to pull the part out and took fan off. Put fan back on the new part and put it back in place. Runs very quiet !!!

Thanks !

1- Remove food from freezer and store in ice chest
2- Turn off refrigerator
3- Remove freezer drawers, 2 drawers, no fastener
4- Remove freezer slide out drawer front , 2 screws
5- Remove ice cube tray holder, 2 screws
6- De-ice back panel with hair dryer / blower
7- Remove back panel in freezer, 8 screws
8- Defrost refrig coil with hair dryer / blower
9- Unplug Bimetal Thermostat, 2 wires, orang / brn
10- Remove Bimetal Thermostat from coil, 1 clip
11- Install new Bimetal Thermostat
12- Re-assemble, reverse order

carefully

Started with internet searches then began with removal of wall plate at back of freezer, pulled power cord first. Found evaporator coil completely frozen over.Went back to internet and searched possible causes. It seemed to me that the auto defrost system may not be functioning properly so I considered possible causes. Defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or possibility heater itself. I chose to go with simple stuff first and thought heater would have a better relibility characteristic. Went to Parts select got part numbers and was able to find part locations on the appliance. So far so good, and knock on wood! Thanks Parts select I spent $50 bucks instead of $1000.

This is easy. Remove lower vent in front of frig to change timer. Unplug and put new one in. . . . 10 Min. To change the thermostat remove food, take off back panel, defrost ice with hairdryer and locate thermostat (to the right above coil) remove old thermostat from connectors and replace with new. One connector needs to be spliced cause it does not match. No problem just use old connector and splice and seal with shrink tubing to prevent moisture from connection. In jersey repair guy charges you 100. 00 Bucks to just walk in the door. . . Forget that. Works fine

First let me say the part arrived much faster than I anticipated! I was able to use the box (cardboard) the part came in to cover the freezer while the door was being worked on. I did not remove the door, but did remove all the screws that held the door inner part that the gasket fits around. Like another person wrote, my insulation in the door was frozen. I took that out and put new insulation in. I then fit the gasket around it and then screwed it back on. I have an electric screw driver and without the bit, it fit these hex screws perfectly, so I was able to unscrew and screw quickly.

Unfortunately, I realized the cause for the dripping was due to a faulty defrost thermostat. I'm guessing that part will arrive tomorrow. We did need a new gasket, however, so I don't regret it.

First of all let me say I can't believe I fixed it! And I can thank this website for it, they also had my part at my front door in less than 24 hours. I am so amazed! I am a stay at home Mom, and because my husband is always off with the military I knew the job was up to me to fix. And because times are tough we certainly couldn't afford a repairman. After reading many stories here about the same problem I had, I diagnosed what was wrong with my refrigerator. The defrost thermostat was faulty. First thing to do was turn off the refrig and then unplug it. I then emptied the bottom freezer, used a screwdriver to remove back panel wall. Lo and behold the coils were covered with ice. I defrosted the freezer using a blow dryer, also had to empty the drip pan in the back. when it got full of water. ANd because there is no way to remove the drip pan, I actually got a small air hose from my son's old fish tank(clean one) and then siphoned the water into a pot, took all of 10 minutes! I then used needle nose pliers to remove the bad defrost thermostat from the refrig's wiring.The defrost thermostat which had a bulge in it so knew I was on the right path. I looked at the new defrost thermostat and they had different ends on it then the one I just removed, and I remember reading what another member did, and that was to cut off the connecting caps, strip the wires , use electrical tape to join them and use a crimping tool to place the old caps on to the new defrost thermostat .I then inserted the thermostat to the freezer's wiring. Hope that makes sense to everyone. WEll, everything is running great! Thank-You Part Select, you saved me lots of money!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

I have a side by side Amana fridge about 12 years old. One day I noticed everything was not cold anymore. I checked the temp with my infrared thermometer and it was about 70 in the top of the fridge, 40-50 in the bottom, and freezer was the same! So after pulling out the two baskets in the bottom of the freezer and the side rails that hold the baskets, I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the back lower panel. After looking at the electrical schematic on the back of the fridge, I jumpered around the defrost thermostat, a little cylinder with two wires coming out of it. Bingo, the fan turned on. Well after a few days of running fine with it jumpered my new one arrived. I never really tested my old one with a meter so I did that and it tested fine, so I plugged the old one back in and it worked fine for a few days. Then one day I noticed that fan wasn't running again so I just put the new one in. I had to cut one of the connectors off as it was female instead of male and crimp cap it together, but besides that it went fine. So after connecting it I noticed the fan motor was buzzing but not spinning. I wiggled wires around and determined the connector going into the fan motor had to be a certain way to make the connection. I unplugged it, it wasn't corroded or anything but if pulled down on, it would not make connection. So pulling up on the connector proved that it would make good connection, so a ziptie keeping the wires tight in the up direction proved to be the solution. I'm pretty sure my old defrost thermostat was not the problem. So that's my story. Hope it helped.