8ED20ZKXAW01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

My fridge was not cooling properly as I would have to tap the thermostat at times to get it to kick on again. Ordered the temperature control thermostat from this site t and watched video on how to install. Not hard at all and did it in under an hour. Fridge is working like new..

The repair video was a great help in this specific repair and matched my refrigerator model exactly. The only issue was an apparent design change in the thermostat that I received. The location of the electrical leads has changed. It might be worth mentioning this in the video. Polarity is not an issue in this case, but if it was, it would be worth noting in the video. So far the refrigerator has been operating normally.

The compressor immediately started when I plugged the refrigerator back in. Around 24 hours later the freezer compartment was at 0 degrees, and the refrigerator was at 35 degrees.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.

Removing old stud was difficult. It will not stap or pull out. Had to cut it off with a Dremel tool, then drill into the center of the old stud and pull out the pieces with needle nose pliers. Be careful, there are 2 metal pins on the side of the hole in the wall of the frid that need to stay there. These are in addition to the 2 metal pins on the shelf support stud. New stud popped right in easily.

I followed the procedures that others described that had the same problem,very handy

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

got the icemaker kit and started to add it to the frig found problems with the adaption to the frig in back for water filler tube but was able to make it fit. had to make a connection outside to water line with copper pipe added to hose with claps and saddle valve, turned it on and had leaks due to the schedule copper was the thin wall type, got thicker type and installed it, no leaks, started making ice. it was nice to get the right kit to make things work out. thanks

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Following the diagram of parts so that I could order the right items was the most difficult part of the job. The web site for this task needs to be more friendly.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

the process was pretty straight forward though the part came without instructions. We were able to replace the part improperly with ease. however, we were not able to get the pieces aligned properly for a long time. We ended up taking the door off many times to try to realign the pieces. After many hours I finally unscrewed the bottom cam while the door was in place. The piece popped into place and all was fixed. Had the part come with directions telling us to do this we would have replaced the cam within 15 minutes!

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

I took apart the thermostatic switch and cleaned the contacts (noticed carbon or corrosion dust beneath the switch). I installed the old switch back in the fridge until new switch arrived. This seemed to solve the problem. I ordered a new thermostatic switch and a new defrost timer since these two items if defective, cause similar symptoms to my problem. I replaced both items and the refrigerator has worked normally since. Replacing both parts was straight forward process. Hope this helps.