5VET6WPKLQ02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

I followed vidio instructions, took about 15 minutes. Fridge making great ice cubes again. Felt prouud of the repair I did being 70 years old and a female. Thank you

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Followed a youtube diagnostic video on a whirlpool fridge with the same configuration. After determining that the problem was the thermostat I ordered the part from parstselect. I was pleasantly surprised by both the fair shipping price and the 2 day arrival. Replacement was as simple. Cut the old wires, wire nut the new ones. Wire colors are the same on my old unit and the replacement, but these generally aren't polarized anyways.

Very easy to replace. Disconnect water line. remove 2 screws pull out filler tube. replace with new one.

Removed screws from the back of the part in the fridge. Pulled old part out. Measured the old part. Cut new part to fit. Replaced new part and tightened the screws. Worked perfectly.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

Used angle screwdriver to tighten.

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

took out the old fill tube installed the new one and its working great. I really did not think that was going to be the problem thought it would be more than that but it was not. It took about 7min to change thanks for the fast shipping I will use you in the future.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.