8ED20TKXDN01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jennifer from Schertz, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2198202
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Contact in thermostat assembly was burned up, making the freezer irregular and the ice would melt, then freeze into a ball!
I took off the front cover with the controls. Pulled out the control knobs, unbolted the assembly (which was identical to my replacement part) and proceded to follow the old thermostat tube to the back of the fridge. The tube should be carefully removed, not pulled on, there's a couple of screws holding it in towards the back. I installed the new part in reverse of how I took out the original part. I'm very happy with how the fridge has come back to life! It was much cheaper to fix it than to replace.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Gurnee, IL
- Parts Used:
- 4389144
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Motor intermittently not working.. Warm Frig.
Very easy. Take panel off and replace motor.. All wires matched fine. Easiest applance repair I've done..
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- Customer:
- Marcus from St Petersburg, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10822259
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The after market 4 yr old motor was making a wierd noise.
Removed back panel and removed the motor put new quick disconnect on and tapped the mounting holes. Removed and cleaned fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Mounted motor plugged it in and replaced panel.
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- Customer:
- David from Lenexa, KS
- Parts Used:
- W10508993
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Chrisper pan support cracked due to overfilling
removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from North Palm Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10822259
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Motor Bearings Locking Up
Removed the back panel on the refrigerator--unplugged the condenser fan motor--removed the motor--placed a small fan to cool the condenser--called parts select--ordered the motor--the motor arrived less than 24 hours after I ordered it--replaced the motor and rear panel on the refrigerator--probably saved more than $200. 00--Very happy with parts select service--plus I had a misunderstanding with my credit card and john at parts select was very helpful --not their fault--excellent company
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- Customer:
- STEPHEN from FENTON, MO
- Parts Used:
- WPW10225581, W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Freezer No Longer Cools
Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.
I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.
I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.
After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.
** Side Notes **
Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.
** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **
If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.
I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.
I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.
After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.
** Side Notes **
Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.
** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **
If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.
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- Customer:
- Troy from Kansas, OK
- Parts Used:
- WP2198202
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Freezer wouldn't defrost/low temps in refrigerator
Found the housing for the thermostat; took housing apart pulled out thermostat and took off the hose put the hose on the new thermostat installed new thermostat and replaced housing.
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Crisper crac kerd and there was no glass insert cover
It took me less than 5 minutes and I had everything installed myself. thanks for the help in ordering the right parts
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- Customer:
- Thomas from North Port, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP2188664
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken drawer
replaced
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- Customer:
- roberto from san Antonio, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2198202
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
freezer gets too cold then gets to regular tempetured
disconect the power removed the screws with the phillips screwdriver removed the front cover and then removed the rest of the screws. removed the three covers and then removed the thermostat. replaced in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Paul from NAYLOR, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP2188664
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Crack in vegetable drawer
Emptied draw of contents pulled draw out and inserted new drawer....easy pea-zee
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My Crisper Draw side railing had broken
I ordered the 2 new drawers, the crisper pan and the meat pan with handle. I took them from the box, wiped them out and slid them right into the spots where my previous drawers were. End of story. This took less than 5 minutes to install. I used the chat feature to inquire as to what number items that I needed to order these 2 drawers, was given the numbers and order the items on line right then. Easy They arrived in record time, like maybe 2 days. They were well packed and arrived in pristine condition.
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- Customer:
- Kyle from Wimauma, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10329686, WP488729, 8201707
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Black Cam was bren on lower door hinge
This was a very simple job. Remove the top Hinge bracket, a total of 4 screws, lifted the door off the bottom hinge, removed the bottom hinge set up, 2 screws, replaced it, and attached the new bottom black door cam, lifted the door back onto the bottom hinge and aligned the top hinge, and reinserted the screws, and Ta Da, The door works like a new refrigerator door. 15 to 30 min tops. I did not even have to take the refrigerator items out of there door holder.
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Fan motor was making noise.
First I removed all food in freezer.Then removed selves and hanger brackets.Then the back panel and light cover.Then I unplugged motor but before this I unplugged refrigerator from the wall.Removed motor from bracket after pulling of fan. Reversed the order to install motor and put back together
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- Customer:
- Michael from Lewisville, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPW10329686
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Refrig Door Cams wore out and made noises when opening and closing.
Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.
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