ET8GTMXKT00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

In the freezer section I disassembled the paneling and remeoved the old bi-metal by cutting the wires (make sure your cut has enough slack to do splicing). Then, stripped 1/4 inch of wire insulation from the wire and used a wire splice to connect the new bi-metal and after that I crimp the wire slice. After all of that, I reassembled the paneling plug in the refrigerator and presto!! (Unplugging the regfrigerator should be the first step). The paneling is easy to remove, all the tools that are required is 1/4" nut driver.

It would have been nice to know that screws were not included and/or show were screws could be purchased. Thank goodness I was able to reuse the top 2 and had an extra screw in my tool bag that fit the bottom, because the existing screw had been super glued into bottom part of handle.

This would have been a less-than-5-minute repair except for one item. The water intake nossle was 180 degrees from the original part. As a result, the copper water inlet tube would not fit in the old space and still allow me to reattach the valve to the freezer chassie. I ended up leaving the valve hanging loose under the freezer. I spent most of my time trying to fit the valve into the old space.

Unplug freezer. Disconnect electrical connections (pull apart). Remove one screw holding the valve to the chassie. disconnect water inlet pipe and water outlet pipe from old valve.

Reconnect electrical connection to new valve. Reconnect in and out water hoses. Reconnect valve to chassie. Plug freezer back in. Finished

Everything works just fine !

Lost screw on bottom refrigerator door hinge which allowed the door to fall off. Purchased screw from Part Select for the Roper refrigerator. Drawings and parts list for this unit were available on their website. Easy repair.

My problem was that the freezer was frosting up.
I have a no frost system so I decided to investigate.
I removed the panels inside the freezer compartment.
This took me about 5 minutes. After the ice had melted, I noticed that the clicks-on (bi-metal stat)
has the top push out at about a 45% angle.
After ordering a replacement, I pushed the top of the bi-metal down to where it's supposed to be.
Put the freezer back together and plugged it in. I needed the freezer while the part is being shipped.
The part arrived in about 3 days, which was very fast and a surprise to me.
The freezer was still working fine so I put the part in the drawer until I needed it.
That was in April 09 and it is still working. I have the part in case I need it.
I am very happy with the service I received from PartSelect and will recommend them to everyone.
David Daley

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Pulled off the interior panel, removed the old blower, reinstalled the new one, plugged the frig in to make sure it ran and replaced the interior panel.

Step 1.
Pay $100.00 for a $10.00 plastic drawer
Step 2.
Remove broken crisper drawer.
Step 3.
Slide in new overpriced crisper drawer.
Step 4.
Write ridiculous instructions on how to get ripped off on a crisper drawer.

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!

Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed