IT8WSKXRW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

un plug first then locate part to replace.lower left corner facing the back . snap off cover on the compressor unplug capacitor install new one.left of capicitor remove the screw on relay install new one.done

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

I did a Google Search for a 1998 Whirlpool ED22RF, looked for trouble Isolation procedures. Don't remember the web sites but two parts were mentioned namely the timer and the thermal relay. After making sure it was unplugged I removed the back lower insulation panel, removed the red wire from the relay located on the left side of the condenser and unplugged the relay. I examined it for physical damage before checking with an ohmmeter and found the thermal relay sounded like it was full of sand when I shook it. So we found PartSelect and searched for the thermal relay and found an exact picture with the part number and ordered the part. We received the $30 part 5 days later. Only took 15 minutes and two tools to install. Thank you for saving us a few hundred dollars.

Replaced the start relay in about 5 minutes and plugged the fridge in and it started working. Easy repair to get fridge working again.

Followed a youtube diagnostic video on a whirlpool fridge with the same configuration. After determining that the problem was the thermostat I ordered the part from parstselect. I was pleasantly surprised by both the fair shipping price and the 2 day arrival. Replacement was as simple. Cut the old wires, wire nut the new ones. Wire colors are the same on my old unit and the replacement, but these generally aren't polarized anyways.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Switch off power at mains outlet. Pull off the front trim panel on the control box at top of the refrigerator compartment (it is just clipped into place). Behind are two screws which you remove. Remove the bulb and also two screws underneath and towards back of the control box. You can then pull down the control box. The defrost timer board is now visible and can easily be switched out (it comes with instructions how to do this). This job too no more than 20 minutes and saved me buying a new refrigerator at $1000.

Removed the screw from the old tray. Attached the new tray and return the screw using a wrench to assure the screw was torqued properly.

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.