3XARG499WP00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.

Fit in perfectly. Slid out the old one, replaced with the new one. Very easy. Very satisfied with the transaction.

Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Remove all items from the door shelves. Removed the top hinge cover and removed hinge mounting screws. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid it on its side. I then replaced bottom hinge cam by removing (1) cap screw. Very simple job.

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

First the small screws you sent did not fit.I had to cut and mend the old ones (2) to use them.I did purchase a connecting valve tha I used to connect the part of tubing (my name for it) from old one to new one.I was surprides it is working fine.Not bad for a nurse!

This story is less about the repair than the service. On Monday, I removed the meat drawer to give it a quick rinse. Unfortunately, I fumbled the ball getting it back to the fridge, dropped the drawer on the hard stone floor, shattering it.

Instead of calling a repair man or going to the local appliance store, I opened up my macbook, found partselect.com, ordered the part and they had it taken care of in 5 minutes. Two days later, Fed Ex handed me a box with the replacement drawer, and I slide it in. Done. Total time to repair -- 6 minutes.

Sure beats leaving the house!

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

Replacing the parts was easy. I am 62 years old and have been repairing all my own appliances for yerars. I have found more problems in recieving the corect parts in a timley mater more difficult than fixing the problem. I am impressed with the promedness of your delivery, and in rtecieving the corect parts. Thank you much!!!!!!!!!!! Bill

The do it yourself video that was attached was great

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

Pulled out the ice bin and dumpted ice in the sink. Use 1/4 inch nut driver to take out all 1/2 inch screws. Be careful to watch how door spring and holder goes. Pull assembly apart and remove alger. Plastic nut on end of alger has reverse threads, remove it and then remove broken alger drum. Replace with new drum and reassemble in reverse order.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

we read on this site how to run the tube down thru the door but we had some problems. we used tape to put together the old and new hose to snake it down and the old hose pulled apart from the new and was stuck in the hole at the bottom of the door. my husband propped up the door and took the bottom hinge off to get to the hole where the tape was stuck and I was able to get a hold of it to finish pulling it through. I think we had to thick of tape wrapped around the two pieces.