ET14EKXPWR0 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

After finding an almost obsolete part( thanks PartSelect!) the installation was rather easy. Remove the back panel of the freezer and vent with a screwdriver and a nut driver. Disconnect the three wires, green, white and red.Remove motor from mounting and replace with new motor. I had to make a slight adjustment to the ground wire on the new motor that required adjusting the position of the contact-no big deal. The motor fit perfectly. Popped fan on and assembled. 20 minutes max.

1. Unplug Refrigerator 2. Remove inside back freezer panel. (4 Screws) 3. Remove Duct Cover (3 Screws). 4. Cut electrical connections to fan. 5. Remove Old Fan motor (2 hex screws. 6. Install ground wire (was not one there previously). 7. Put slide-on electrical connectors on remaining 2 motor wires. (Were not any on original unit.) 8. Replace Fan Motor (Don't forget the rubber vibration pads) 9. Reconnect electrical wires. 10. Press on plastic fan blade. 11. Plug in refrigerator to test install. It works. 12 Unplug refrigerator and replace ducting and back panel to freezer. Plug it back in. Voila, Quiet again.

The evaporator fan is located in the freezer behind the back wall. If you have the ice maker remove it first then remove the screws on the top of the panel. You will notice the side brackets for the top shelf will make it hard to remve the panal but by slitly binding the center the panal came right out. The fan is held in a bracke tha comes right out. The wire unplu right from the fan so do not try to unplg the seal plug to the left side. Swap the fan with the new one useing the new rubber monts re-connect the wires and reasymble. Put the bottom of the back panal in first then work each side in past the shelf bracket binding the center slightly.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear shelf supports by lifting them straight up. No tools required. Remove the screws holding the rear cover of the freezer. Use a nut driver to remove the 4 screws holding the fan housing. Unplug the wiring harness, then remove the fan and install the new one. Remount the housing, plug in the harness replace the rear cover, install the shelf supports and plug in the refrigerator. It was 30 minutes start to finish, which includes the time to gather the tools, unload and reload the freezer, and putting the tolls away!

Needed to replace a really old Refrigerator Door Gasket and was having difficulty locating a door gasket for this unit. We didn't even know the age of the unit, but found the model number of the refrigerator which no one really lists on websites because it's so old. Customer service found the Model we had, we ordered and it was received at our home the next day.Price was good and the shipping chg was very reasonable. Very pleased and will definately order from them again! Thanks!!!!

Took the old fan out and put the new fan in.

Emptied the freezer. Removed the back panel. (six screws)Removed the fan cover.(4 screws) Unplugged the power. Unplugged three wires from the motor. (hot-neutral-ground)Removed the fan. (2 screws) Installed the new fan and centered for clearance. Reversed the prior instructions.

Remove back cover of freezer compartment; Remove old fan assembly, new fan terminals did not exactly match old one so I had to remove one of the terminals from old fan and attach it to new fan/ then install new assembly and repaced freezer cover

I oringinally thought it was one of the thermostats b/c the freezer started to freeze again after unplugging it. But then the next day it stopped all together and I could hear a clicking noise in the back and the compressor never turned on. It would click at around 2 minutes then again about 17 seconds later. I took photos of the original wires in the connector to match up later. The new parts were not identical to the old. The red wire on the bottom fit fine but the other two wires would not go in the same terminal or numbered positions (1&4). For 2 reasons, 1, the blue female was too small for the male and 2) there was a male missing at position 4. After looking at the guts of the old connector I decided to get new females (2 trips b/c I didn't buy a big enough wire opening - needed 2 wires) and cut, splice & crimp them. I then put the two females on the top two males & plugged it in. No sparks or explosions... but silence. I waited a few minutes and then the fan kicked on and then the compressor started running. That was Sunday, it's now Thursday and things are working well.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Pulled the electric plug! Removed the freezer shelf and the rear shelf supports by pulling straight up. Swung rear panel out of the way after taking out the two phillips head screws at the top. Removed the plastic deflector grill to which the motor is attached with a nut driver. Removed motor from grill and disconnected wire prongs (pull off). Attach new motor. Only issue - the ground prong has been moved to the front of the motor so the wire just reaches and has to be gently bent back so the fan blade clears it. Reattach deflector grill. Push on fan blade, but not too far to hit wire. Reassemble the rest in reverse order.