GAFZ21XXMK01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

taped the door shut ,measured a block of wood and stuck it under the door for support.....unbolted bottom hinge,slipped on hinge bracket and reassembled.no muss no fuss.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Screw bulb in and place cover over bulb.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

poured boiling hot water into drain; removed most ice with hair dryer. Clips(2) positions the defrost tray & drain under the freezer condenser. A "home-made" coil of 18g copper wire inserted into the drain hole, & secured to the defrost heater further prevents the drain from iceing shut!

I replaced the thermometer first and it started working again. I was convinced that the reason that it continued to break every 6mos was because no one had ever replaced the fan. The difficult part was getting to it. After trying to get in from the front and from the back I finally figured out that I had to take the bottom off and tilt it on its side. I was then able to get out the pin in the condenser and move it to the side. I could then reach the screws that held in the fan. I then decided to put the fan on the motor and when I was tapping it on with a hammer the back cracked. I attempted to fix it by taking apart the old motor and salvaging the parts but that didn't work. I had to buy another $85 part and take the whole thing apart again. It was easier the second time because I knew which screws and pins I had to remove and how to get to them. I very, very carefully tapped the fan onto the motor and now it is working fine. I will let you know if it is still working at Easter. If it is I will have done a better job than the 7or 8 repairmen who have fixed it in the past

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

My husband watched the video on the repair and followed it step by step...works like a charm! The repair shop wanted 299.55 to fix it - the part was 79.00....big savings by doing it ourselves.

fan motor housing had to be drilled through both sides of housing to attach to existing bracket. Possible damage to wiring inside the unit may disable condensor fan motor when motherboard is replaced. (Motherboard on order.)

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.