4ET14GKXFW02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

unscrewed the broken part of the handle and put the new one on. It was easier than expected.

Just instaling the new part with a screw driver

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

I checked the net. Said the temp control was the problem. Ordered and installed the temp control. Bottom still would not cool. Total waste of time and money. After checking realized fan in freezer was not working. Took it apart and exposed the fan. Pushed it and it started working. Wd 40ed it. Put it back together. Fan is working and the bottom is cooling. Check the fan first before you buy anything.

I'm not sure you really want to know. We had to use one of the two refrigerator shelves we purchased, which was too big to fit in the freezer. It had to be completely modified in order to accomplish this. We therefore cut the shelf in half lengthwise. To do this, it was necessary to determine the tools needed, then to gather them and finally use them. It took a good amount of foresight and perseverance, but the job was completed, works beautifully and is very helpful. We wondered why a freezer shelf was not available or if it was, why it was not clearly identified in the parts list.

hardest part was pulling out the refrigerator. it took about five minutes. parts fit perfectly. only thing to look for is some excess flashing on the end of the tube. easily removed with a pocket knife. simple repair.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Watched your AMAZNG detailed Video first. Ordered part received in two days,WOW! Pulled refrig. from wall unscrewed two screws, loosened third screw on hose, pulled hose out cut below metal incert. Took new part from package placed in back of refrig. placed new metal incert in hose replaced hose in new fitting. Turned water back on, plugged in refrig. No leaks pushed back to wall waited for while...VOILA!! ice cubes no mess to report. THANKS FOR SUCH AN AMAZING WEB SITE and SERVICE. TOM

Had no problem at all it took about 5 minutes to get the tray off and about 5 minutes to put new tray on.New part fit perfect. Thanks Robert Lovern

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I just slid the new one in. However the website made it easy to find and order. Plus I had my new drawer in under a week.

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

Water was already off. All I had to do was pull the fridge away from the wall, remove two screws that hold the fill tube onto the back of the frige, then remove the fill tube. Install the new fill tube, reinstall the two screws. Had to cut the water line straight and clean, slip on the new Compression nut and farrell and insert into the new fill tube, tighten-up, good-to-go.