3XKGN7050W01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Emptied door of food jars etc. Used socked on top plate. Removed door and placed on a flat surface. Used socket to take out cam on the bottom of the door. Replaced worn cam. Replaced nylon sleeve on the top of the refrigerator door with needle nose pliers. Placed door in the bootom slot with the new cam in place. Placed top plate in the new nylon sleeve on the door. Replaced screws with socket wrench.

I unplugged the fridge, removed the face plate on the front, disconnected the power feeds, unscrewed the electrical panel and moved it out of the way.
I then dismantled and removed the broken part and installed the new part. I was able to use the rest of the existing parts to get the job done.
I put everything back together, and voila! it works great.

Removed ice bucket and discovered the auger drum was broken.

After I received the new part, I removed the front screws of the ice bucket, removed the clip that held the auger and other parts together, and then slide each part off the auger until I got to the broken drum.

Assembly was in reverse except you must pay attention where all the spacers and ice crusher bars go back into the original position. This was the most difficult step.

Works great now, crushed and cubed ice dispenses thru the door like new.

It took 2 minutes to search and find the correct part for half the price of the original part that I had inquired about.

Took old one out replaced with new

Fit in perfectly. Slid out the old one, replaced with the new one. Very easy. Very satisfied with the transaction.

First the small screws you sent did not fit.I had to cut and mend the old ones (2) to use them.I did purchase a connecting valve tha I used to connect the part of tubing (my name for it) from old one to new one.I was surprides it is working fine.Not bad for a nurse!

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

The do it yourself video that was attached was great

Detached the broken ice guide by expandong the opening bewteen the tabs with my hands. Installed the new ice guide and pressed into place. Took about 3 minutes.

Pulled out the ice bin and dumpted ice in the sink. Use 1/4 inch nut driver to take out all 1/2 inch screws. Be careful to watch how door spring and holder goes. Pull assembly apart and remove alger. Plastic nut on end of alger has reverse threads, remove it and then remove broken alger drum. Replace with new drum and reassemble in reverse order.

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

Starting at the bottom, with a flat blade screwdriver pry the front cover off the opening. Unplug the wire connector from the back, remove the cover plate holding the switches and light socket by pushing out on the plastic clips on each side. Use something like a bungie cord to hold it up out of the way. Carefully unsnap the clear plastic ice shoot from the push arm, next carefully unsnap the cover door from the push arm. Clean anything that needs cleaning (CLR works great on hard water deposits)
Install everything in reverse order, the cover door first, ice shoot next, switch plate, plug in the wire connector and snap the outside cover in place.