KFRF19MTAL00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

Determined that compressor was not running, after researching problem on another site they recommended i try the condenser moor fan or motor, the defrost thermostat or defrost timer. . I was not satisfied with their recommendations. If I had tried their recommendations i would have likely gotten frustrated and spent upwards of $3000 to replace the 22 year-old hand me down unit. Thank you Parts Select for properly diagnosing my relay failure saving me a ton of money.

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!

removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away