8617^0A Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.

Found the model number, called the local parts store, they quoted $60 + $10 shipping because it was a warehouse order or something. So I came hear and got it for $42 + $7 shipping!

Turned off power, unscrewed the element, disconnected the clips from broken element, connected them to the new, screwed in the new element, and it was done

First, I want to say that this part arrived within 24 hours of placing the order. I was plesantly suprised. My husband did the repair and it was super easy. We had no problems.

Thanks PartSelect!

Determining the correct bake element to order was the most difficult part. Once I received the part, it took me 2 minutes to unscrew the back panel, detach the wires, connect the new wires and re-connect the back pannel - turned the oven on to test - and we were all set just in time for Chistmas baking.

Awesome, just awesome, you guys are great and I will use you again and again.

This was an easy thing to do. Take the two screws off the back, pull the wires out, pull off the connectors, get the new element, replace the connectors, make a hole in the insulation, fish the wires back behind the insulation, screw the mounting screws and turn it on. The only thing I did extra is clean the bottom of the oven because with the element out, it's easy to do.

I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the part and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.

took oven tray out and loosened igniter and replace same works great.

Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!

Remove the door... it just pulls up and out... set the release tabs so you can remove the bottom plate .. pull out broiler drawer... unscrew the 2 screws on the igniter ..let that hang... remove the cover for the termination.. and unplug the old igniter... then reverse everything to put back together..

The repair was real easy, other than the old bolts which just turned in the sockets when trying to get them out. It might be a good idea to provide two nuts and bolts to negate this problem. I would not mind paying a dollar or two extra for two bolts and nuts. Other than that, the instructions were clear. Product arrived on time and I would absolutely use your services again. Oven is back to working great! Thank you!

Very simple, unscrew the old element. Remove the electrical spade connectors and reverse to install new element. The folks at parts select.com were very helpful and even after I ordered the wrong part, the return process was hassle free. Prompt shipping, very happy.

I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .

removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com

Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.