GB22DKXGB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed the instructions for the installation of the icemaker and its connection to the house water supply.

Used information on internet as to how to check and repair unit. Due to high cost to have repair come to let me know it was broken, being handy with repairs, I took it upon myself to check the timer and therm, ordered the parts from this site , got them within 5 days, took about 40 minutes to use simple tools to remove and replace the timer and therm, used hair dryer to defrost coil unit and turned unit on, lit has been working well since then, about 2 weeks since repair. Saved lots on repair/labor cost and parts cost. Well satisfied, will use this product company again. I WAS AMAZED HOW EASY REPAIR WAS, WIFE HAPPY NOW!

Removed refrigerator door. Removed 3 screws. Replaced old ice maker with new ice maker. Put in 3 screws. Ice maker working great.

Removed the cover to the timer, 2 nut screws. Easy. Then emptied freezer, and took off back plate with nut driver. Replaced thermostat. 2 wire plugs that were easy to complete. Left back off, let thermostat normalize temperature, then switched to defrost setting. Worked like a charm.

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

First let me say the part arrived much faster than I anticipated! I was able to use the box (cardboard) the part came in to cover the freezer while the door was being worked on. I did not remove the door, but did remove all the screws that held the door inner part that the gasket fits around. Like another person wrote, my insulation in the door was frozen. I took that out and put new insulation in. I then fit the gasket around it and then screwed it back on. I have an electric screw driver and without the bit, it fit these hex screws perfectly, so I was able to unscrew and screw quickly.

Unfortunately, I realized the cause for the dripping was due to a faulty defrost thermostat. I'm guessing that part will arrive tomorrow. We did need a new gasket, however, so I don't regret it.

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.

Repaired as others have described - simply component part replacement. However, the fan blade shaft on the replacement motor was slightly smaller in diameter such that once the original fan blade was placed on it and the fan was running, the fan blade slid all the way down on the shaft and made contact with the motor. I had to use duct tape to increase the shaft diameter and then put the fan blade on. Running perfectly now.

Pull lowers Freezer back panel and replace heater.

I checked your web site for similar problems. Most were the bimetal defrost thermostat. Some had defrost timer problems. Althought my bimetal thermostat was deformed by the ice I replaced both parts. The fix was easy after defrosting the evaporator. By using the spec sheets I found the locations and replaced the parts. The refrigerator is now working fine.

I wouldn't do it without taking the door off. Cut insulation board the size of the door and tape it to the frig. Lay the door on the table where you can work on it easy. You can use a small drill to take the screws out (under the seal). Put them back by hand and do not over tighten. They are easy to strip out where they won't hold the gasket tight to the door.

removed gasket with nut driver and screw gun. warmed new gasket up with hair dryer. worked seal around door. seal installed very easily. video was very helpfull. i didn't take door off. freezer works fine now with no frost or ice buildup.

Used online resources to deteremine that it was either the icemaker not telling the valve to open or the valve no opening so ordered both and started with the valve (cheaper part). Turn off the water, removed the mounting screws, disconnected the plug, removed the water line (used the wet vac to suck up water while it leaked out). and disconnected the inlet line. Reconnected everything in reverse order but left unmounted until sure it worked, turned water on and waited.

for timer-removed front base cover, removed timer from mount plate- r2 timer-reattached plug- installed front base cover. for defrost thermostat- remove all trays and slide mounts-removed back metal cover- remove thermostat and unplug wires. Cut three inch section of brown wire with terminal from old thermostat and replace on new thermostat using an in line splice. reassemble