GAFZ21XXRK01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

This problem can be caused by 3 different part failures. Timer, thermostat or heater. After contacting a service repair shop I was told that most often it is the thermostat. The cost of the repair would be at least $115. To much for an old refer. So I ordered the part from Partselect for $33. and put it in myself. Step1 cut the power to the refer. Step2 remove ice maker if you have one. Step3 remove base and back panels in the freezer. Step4 the coils were badly frozen so I used a hair dryer to thaw it out. Would have waited a long time for it to thaw out otherwise. Step5 The thermostat is clipped on to copper tubing next to the coils. Unclip it and cut the wires close to the thermostat. Strip the wires and wire nut the new thermostat. Clip it back on to the copper tubing. Put it all back together and start it up. It's over a week know and no problems. Note: We have whirlpool appliances that are over 16 years old. I have repaired the washer, oven, and now the refer with parts from Partselect. Good company. Always received the correct part within about 3 days from ordering. If you are able to do the work yourself you can save big bucks and keep your appliances running longer. Good Luck

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

followed the video instruction from part select web site

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

Had to take everything out and defrost the whole refrigerator dry up and than took back off at bottom and the one covering the Bimetal. The hole was plugged so we took the compressor and blew it and finally got all the ice out before we put on the Bimetal. This is the 4th time we fixed this and I don't know why it won't last longer than 8/9 months. The warrenty is for a year and so far I have gotten 2 refunds thank you!

We followed de video that made it very clear to us. Thank you! It's been working great since...

We heard the unit trying to start and then cutting off. It quit making ice. I pulled the unit out cleaned the coil and could feel the compressor was really hot. Unplugged it and let it cool down. After internet search plugged it in a heard it try to start then cut off. I read so many short stories on your site that described my problem I was convinced to purchase the part. You guys did a great job! I ordered it on Monday before noon it came the next day Fed X ground. Took me a liitle over 15 min. to put the part in. Plugged it in and it's worging great. We live in remote area and service call would be real expensive. I will be back here on next repair challenge. Thanks for your help. You guys offer a great service.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Removed items and defrosted freezer. I then removed metal shelves, ice maker, bottom sliding tray and false bottom, freezer back, and light bulb with wire track. Cut wires to defrost thermostat and spliced in new thermostat. Reassembled shelves, back, etc., in reverse order. Old thermostat tested "open" in hot and cold water with Ohm meter tester.

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna

First I entered my model #, then picked the symptom, then went with the odds when presented with the likely suspects. The run capacitor, and bi-metal defrost timer had the highest % of guilt. Most of the time was spent defrosting the coils with a hair dryer. The run capacitor took 3 minutes to remove and replace. I snipped out the old defrost timer and used butt connectors to wire up the new one. The old timer flunked the continuity test when placed in salted ice water. The freezer/fridge runs like new, for about $66. The run capacitor was probably ok but I left the new one in, being too lazy to send it back. "Part Select" was a great partner in helping to fix my machine.

took shelf off of freezer, took ice cube maker out, took back panel off changed defrost thermostat.then re-assembled.