GAFZ21XXRK01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

changed the starter connected to the compressor

its not that hard to replace. may need help to tilt fridge on one side so you can get to the bottom to remove wheel.Had to undo all four corner screws/bolts to loosen bottom section and slowly pull out base frame which holds the 4 wheels. this frame is also holding the compressor and fan so be careful.replace wheel and slowly put frame back to position and screw back bolts. pull back fridge to upright position. leave unplugged for a day or two to allow gas to come back to normal level as we had tilted it.plug it back and it works.
thanks
Anoop

This is a side by side fridge. Both refrigerator and freezer quit working. I could here the combination start device click and try to start the compressor. It would shut back off within 5 seconds.Removed the lower rear cover on the fridge and cleaned the coils while it was off. Replaced the combination start device, plugged in the fridge, and it worked. What a relief!

MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF or REFRIGERATOR UNPLUGGED BEFORE STARTING THIS!!!
I removed the lower refrigerator backing. The compressor was located in the left corner of the refrigerator. I located the start device which had a thin clip on top of it. After removing the clip I pulled the 2 wires (Red and White) from the start device. I then pulled the whole device from the compressor. You can use a screwdriver to pry it from the compressor. I unplugged the capacitor from the old switch and plugged it into the new one. Installed in reverse from how I took it out.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

The star device that i recived was a little different, wasn't black like the original a recived a grey one and little bit smaller than the original but it fit perfect, and my frige is working good since i replaced.

First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.

Two bins were cracked. I simply unhooked the broken bins and put the new ones in their place.

I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.

Power outage and both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling. When you unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in the compressor would run for a few seconds then kick off. Replaced the combination start device and works great again. Third time I have used the site with positive results. Fast shipping and right part every time to fix that fixed my problem.

The first thing I did was to determine what my problem was. I was hearing a clicking sound and
noticed the compressor was trying to start.
I removed the screws that held the back cover on
which took 5 minutes. Once it was off I could see the compressor and the start switch which was attched to the side with a clip. I took the needle nose pliers and popped this off and pulled the switch out, disconnected the wire plug and that was it. To replace it I unplugged the capacitor from the old switch and plugged it into the new one then installed it the same way the old one came out.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Refrigerator compressor making a clicking noise and not starting, problem was a compressor relay. I just had to remove the backing off of the fridge with a screwdrive and the compressor relay just plugs into the side of the compressor.

After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. After partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.