GARF19XXVK00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

un plug first then locate part to replace.lower left corner facing the back . snap off cover on the compressor unplug capacitor install new one.left of capicitor remove the screw on relay install new one.done

ordered the part by model number of the appliance. Part Select has all the diagrams of the parts you need, very easy to identify and order. Received the part promptly took it out of the package and inserted it where it belonged. Thank you Part Select for your expertise.Dan

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

put the replacement part in..........pretty simple.

I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.

pulled the fridge out and took the old ones out and put new ones in .... glad to find the right drawers though.... they fit perfectly....

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I did a Google Search for a 1998 Whirlpool ED22RF, looked for trouble Isolation procedures. Don't remember the web sites but two parts were mentioned namely the timer and the thermal relay. After making sure it was unplugged I removed the back lower insulation panel, removed the red wire from the relay located on the left side of the condenser and unplugged the relay. I examined it for physical damage before checking with an ohmmeter and found the thermal relay sounded like it was full of sand when I shook it. So we found PartSelect and searched for the thermal relay and found an exact picture with the part number and ordered the part. We received the $30 part 5 days later. Only took 15 minutes and two tools to install. Thank you for saving us a few hundred dollars.

Just replaced the old Push-On Start Relay and it started to work again.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00