ET6JTKXKQ00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

New part was similar, except contact blade was for a full 1/4", my model utilizes 1/8". So I cut the blade in half with a hacksaw, filed off the rough edges and reassemblied the connector; attached it to the compressor
Now being a retired electronic engineer; who's great idea was it to hide a klixon inside the connector?

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I hand screwed the fill tube into the water tube and stuck it into the freezer hole. I screwed the fill tube to the back of the refrigerator.

Thanks so much! You saved me a bundle!!

My refrigerator is about 26 yrs old and the part I received must have been for newer models, but I was able to insert the part into a little rubber part attached to the bottom the refrigerator,

Using a screwdriver

I placed the glass into the frame. I attempted to slide the frame into the refrigerator over the two crisper drawers. It wouldn't go.

My son came to my rescue. "Mother, the drawers slide into the frame". He took the drawers out, put the frame in the refrigerator, placed the glass cover into the frame, then slide the drawers back into the rungs made for them in the frame. Easy peasy! ;

Ordering was made smooth with a good program for finding parts.

Thank you.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.