KRFC136RWH00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Laid out new gaskets in sunlight to make them pliable. Removed old gasket by gently pulling them out of the channels around the door. I then did the reverse with the new gaskets. Starting at the top I pushed the new gasket into the channel, moving in one direction around the door. Make sure the outer lip of the gasket does not fold under itself. It should lie flat on the surface of the door. It is truly that easy.

Initially I thought it was the valve that provides water to the ice maker. Days prior to go bad, it was making intermittent noises while filling the ice maker. I couldn't tell if it was the ice maker or not. It doesn't have a way to test it or reset button. So I decided and bought both parts, the valve and the ice maker unit. The installation was pretty straight forward. It takes ~30 minutes to replace. The ice maker ended up being the defective part. The one I got is a little bit different because it have a ON/OFF switch while the original did not. But everything else was exactly the same. Regarding the valve, it was good, so now I have a spare one in case it fails in the future. I'm glad I found this website to get the parts.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

I noticed the coils very dusty dirty, tried brushing it clean, ended up blowing it clean. I noticed the condenser fan motor was never turning, I had power, so I ordered a new one. I actual received the evaporator motor, so I had to order the correct one. After changing it, and it started blowing right away. But my refrigerator is still warm. I do not know where the evaporator blower motor is located. I cannot make out from the diagram breakdown. HELP

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Can not do repair. Ordered part 3/30 due to me on 4/1. Today is 4/15 and still no part. I even paid for quicker delivery. Thanks FedEx!!

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

installed new parts

Used a philips screwdriver.