KRFC300EBS10 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Remove lower freezer door from mounting frame (4 screws). Remove inner shelving and shelving brackets, Total of six screws, three on each side on lower brackets and 4 screws, 2 on each side on upper brackets. Remove ice cube maker (4 screws). Remove thermometer frame from back cover and slide thermometer out of frame. Remove 4 screws from back cover and remove cover. Slide thermometer through hole in back cover. Remove 4 screws from evaporator motor housing. Gently pull plastic fan off of motor shaft. Remove motor from housing and install new motor. Reinstall all parts in the order removed.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Snapped in new part

Easily pulled out the gaskets off the refrigerator doors and replaced them with the new ones. The installation video was also a big help in the process.

Looked at the new part to determine what I would need to remove the old part. It was very easy to figure out. I removed the old end cap by taking out the screws. Once the screws were out I popped the side of the end cap off. There is a horizontal piece along the back wall that is connected to the end cap. On the left side of this piece of plastic there is a small tab that clicks into the back wall. On the right hand end cap there is a sliding lever which controls the air in the deli tray. This control is made of plastic and appears to be pretty fragile> By gently bending this lever I was able to remove the control lever and install it on the new end cap. In all it took me about 15 minutes to complete the entire job. Very easy.

Received gasket. Checked color and size. Because this unit is 33 inches wide one door is 3 inches narrower than the other. Removed shelves from door to provide more room to work. Took 15 seconds to pull out old seal and 1 minute to install the new one. Checked to make sure center sealing flap were on the center side of door. Started in upper corners, worked my way around the perimeter pressing in in with my fingers.
Took longer to R&R and wash shelves than to replace door seal.
VERY EASY

Turned off power, Removed screw, disconnected wire harness and removed old rail from door, Connected new wire harness and attached new rail to door, replaced screw. Restored power. Done.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Very easy to fix . It was harder to empty the contents out or the refrigerator than to repair . The diagrams on this site were very helpful in identified the part. and it was delivered in 5 days.

Unscrew decorative plastic cover. Unsnap old damper assembly and disconnect wire connector. Snap in the new assembly and plug in the wires. Replace decorative cover.

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.

I unpacked the glass and slipped it into the shelf. Done.
What was more impressive was the delivery time. I ordered the glass at about 12:30pm one day and the glass was at my door by 9am the next morning. Even my husband was impressed with that.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.