WRFA60SFHZ05 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

Using a screwdriver

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Simply opened the door and replaced the shelf with the new one.

PS
Be sure to order the correct shelf, because although they looked the same initially they’re not.

My unit has different shelves for the right and the left.

Good product and fast ship!!!

Sent model #..all of maytag parts have part # printed on them..snaps off and new part snaps on!!! Great!! They do have assistance to help you repair,but wasn't needed..i know who to order from now for any appliance!!

Just plugged it in

empty top shelf in refrigerator, remove glass shelf. Wash and dry. Turn shelf over and line up notches and snap in place. Cost of guide plus 7.99 shipment fee and local ta was $18. Local dealer wanted $24 to order same part. Easy do-it-yourself project.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Called my handyman in after myself and my son went thru the whole thing with cleaning gaskets, etc, ordered part I thought I needed. After speaking with your person on the phone, he took out my veg drawers and the shelf that held them, then reinstalled the shelf and the door closed tight! Apparently the last time I took it apart to clean it, I didn't put shelf back correctly and that started my problem. However, your people were very nice and as helpful as they could be in the situation. It never was my door cam or cam door after all. Boy, is my face red!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."