KRFC136RPS00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

This is a simple repair, the gasket is pressed into a groove in the door and only needs to be eased out (pulled) by hand and the new gasket pressed back into place by hand. Starting the installation in one upper corner to make alignment easy. The side of the gasket with the table face center. For this model remember the doors are not symmetrical and the gaskets are a different size for each door. The gaskets come folded which puts a kink in the gasket. I set them out in the warm sun to straighten out before installing.

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

with the freezer working I knew the compressor was working. I confirmed that the actuator door in the refrigerator was working but no air was blowing out. The hardest part was removing all the freezer drawer components and the ice maker so I could remove the panel in the back covering the evaporator motor. A quick resistance check of the motor confirmed no continuity in the motor. Take your time so that you dont break any of the snap in pieces. The motor I received did not look like the one I was replacing, but in fit in place and bolted right in. They provided an adapter wire to connect the wiring. All in all it was a fairly easy job. The video I followed was very helpful.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Motor evaporate. Replacement. Just like the video and it worked out perfect. Refrigerator works great now.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Laid the three seals in the sun for an hour and then took and stuck each seal, one at a time, to the door of an adjacent freezer and used the hot air gun to straighten the seals which were bent due to the packaging.

Initially I thought it was the valve that provides water to the ice maker. Days prior to go bad, it was making intermittent noises while filling the ice maker. I couldn't tell if it was the ice maker or not. It doesn't have a way to test it or reset button. So I decided and bought both parts, the valve and the ice maker unit. The installation was pretty straight forward. It takes ~30 minutes to replace. The ice maker ended up being the defective part. The one I got is a little bit different because it have a ON/OFF switch while the original did not. But everything else was exactly the same. Regarding the valve, it was good, so now I have a spare one in case it fails in the future. I'm glad I found this website to get the parts.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Just plugged it in

The Condenser Fan Motor was already removed due to searching for the problem. The new fan motor looked different from the original but I felt very comfortable that Part Select had sent me the new part showing original part number changing numbers over the years. Simply placed the fan blades onto the new motor lined up 2 of the holes placed screws and tightened then plugged the wire ribbon into the Condensor Fan Motor, plugged in the Refridgerator and it worked beautifully.

The instruction video on the Part Select Web Site made it so incredibly easy to install. Installation took under 3 minutes!

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

pull out old gasket and pushed in new one