WRX735SDHB07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Saw U tube instrctions how to install and it was easy

The ice selector solenoid was a snap to replace.
You do have to pull the ice maker out. I looked on you tube to find out how to take off the wire cover and how to release the ice maker so it will slide out.
Firmly grab it and pull try to keep it level while pulling and it will slide out better.
After removed its 2 small screws and a release clamp to get the old part off and snap the new one in replace screws and wires.
The toughest part of this was figuring out that it was the solenoid in the first place.
Best of luck do it yourselfers like me.

Access back of unit, lower left corner. Remove wire capacitor retention clip. Unplug cold capacitor, plug in replacement, reinstall wire retention clip, test.

I made a temporary repair by drilling the old blade plastic hub and put a small screw in it to hold it on to the shaft until the new blade arrived. The new blade came in within the two days I needed before Thanksgiving. I removed the old and pushed on the new. There were 8 screws on the back guard and two to hold the motor on. It was a snap.
Thank you PartSelect.com The wife is very, very happy now, we had 51 coming over for Thanksgiving. :)

The old plactic ring can be removed with flat bladed screw driver, starting on the right side prying it up worked best for me. The new seal snaps in only one way take your time to get it wright.

I got really tired of taking food out covered in icicles and stabbing a huge block of ice out of the bottom. Turns out all he needed was a little wheel with cogs and I looked up the sticker model number on this site and clicked the part of the fridge. So simple, wish I would’ve done it sooner.

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.

Killed the power to the fridge. Then, used a small, thin screwdriver to depress the clip on the bottom of the switch and wriggled the old switch out. The two wires easily came off the contacts with pliers. Connected the wires to the new switch and snapped it into the hole--clip facing down and contacts facing up. Turned the power back on and checked the switch. Worked perfectly! Easy job.

Open the existing cover and carefully with the thumb and index fingers, pry the cover at over the left pin and remove the cover. Place the replacement onto the right pin and pry the left placing it over the left and you are done.

Replaced motor it was not issue. Now I am stuck with a $300 motor I cannot return. When I say will not dispense ice everyone thinks it does not make ice. Auger does not turn to push ice out the door. Reason I thought it was auger motor when you push lever on door the auger turns about one eight of a turn. So, it would seem it is getting signal and power. Cannot find any articles on this specific issue. If anyone has a suggestion, please share.

No product was sent in the box for the shaft I received an empty box from them cannot perform any repairs because I got no product from this company. Called customer service said due to Covid no customer service available when online and receive no customer service no refund no product no help

Replacing a glass shelf