WRS325SDHV10 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

First I removed the screw holding the ice door shaft (at the rear of the ice container). Removed clip of which the screw was holding in place (no need to remove the clip from the shaft). Then I removed the front cover screws, separated front cover from ice container. Door shaft is removed with front cover assembly, no need to remove anything else from front cover. Pulled out auger shaft, removed circlip (snap ring) and washer from front of shaft. Used an adjustable wrench to remove plastic nut from front end of shaft. CAUTION - the plastic nut is reverse thread, make sure to turn it clockwise to loosen and remove. Pulled off broken auger then reassembled with new auger in the reverse order as previously described.

i used the instructions that came with the part and it was really simple. thank you very much. it saved me a HUGH repair bill.we use alot of crushed ice and the part shipped in 2 days. thank you.C.D.L.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Replaced drum and reassembled unit.

I followed the instructions on your video.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

All I did was unscrew the stripped one and screw the new part on. You just have to get it started unscrewing first ( remember that it's backwards! ).

SUPER EASY. I pulled out the ice bucket and confirmed the motor ran and the axel turned - however the coupling was missing. Ordered the coupling - pulled out the ice bucket, screwed on by hand with minimum effort, put ice bucket back and ice started coming out the door. It took less than 5 minutes and no tools required.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Took the old one out and put the new one in

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.