ET0WSRXML00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I Checked thermostat in freezer compartment for continuity I next checked defrost heater for proper ohms. both were ok. I assumed defrost control board could be only problem. changing control board located in upper right was simple ,pop off cover plate with small screwdriver remover four screws plug in new control board.

I unpluged fridge then took the cap off the fan moter then took the three nuts off the fan then unplugged the three wires. And visaversa, ta! Ra! Fridge works just like new.

First thing, I didn't have any idea how to fix my refrigerator, but I saw some videos on line, I just pull the start relay, it sound like little parts inside. I order to PART SELECT my Start Relay combination and part select have more comments, diagrams it was easy to find the part. Put the new start relay was easy, I just conect those wires back it took less than 10 minutes and it's working now.thanks to Part Select to make easy to fix it.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

I ordered the crisper pan by the model number and received it the very next day!! All I had to do was slide the old broken one out and slide the new one in, and voila! It was as easy as fitting cinderella's slipper(on her feet of course).

I was amazed how easy it was to replace this control board. I printed the pictures and instructions for the part that were on your site. There was a video for another part and it allowed me to get familiar with the layout of my unit. Thank you very much.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

After plugging in the new relay to no avail. I replaced the thermostat. That fixed the problem.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

Used angle screwdriver to tighten.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.