WRF555SDFZ Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.

Took out the old and installed the new.. The fit was perfect.

I looked on YouTube for how to do the repair. It was simple and fast

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

Customer service provided a video of the ice maker removal and installation. I watched the video and performed the remove and replacement.
Simple task.
Shout out to the customer service person, OUTSTANDING SERVICE. I apologize for not getting her name, great job.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

first of all,i just want to thank parts select for sending me a second ice maker at no charge.after installing the first one and it didn't work,i talked with Heather and she sent me a new one.installation went the same as before.hardest part is getting the quick connect wire harness apart and the ice fill arm .it is working great and my home is happy.thank you!

Removed old ice maker. Unscrewed unit from slide. Unplugged old wire. Screwed on new unit. Replugged in wire. Slid ice maker back into refrigerator and all worked properly.

Took out ice maker. Then unscrewed tray after opening old turn motor clock panel and carefully detaching wires from socket(s) where needed. Put in and screwed in new tray with the new motor clock. Replaced wires into new sockets. Put the whole maker back into place. Makes great ice.

Since it wasn't possible to squeeze the seal in between the door groove and the bar which closes the gap between the two doors, I cut the seal side in half and snaked it in from the top and the bottom. Since the cut is behind the bar when the door is closed there is no compromise in getting a good seal around the door. Note there was no apparent way to easily remove this bar.

Very easy. Just get hold of the gasket with your strong fingers and pull it out of the groove it is in. Clean the groove, I used Windex and paper towels. On the new gasket there are 2 wide areas on the vertical part. these must be facing toward you and on the handle side of the door. start at the tor center of the door and work the gasket in with your fingers outward to the corners then work on the bottom of the gasket in the same manner, then start on the vertical gaskets. when you think every thing is aligned take your thumbs and press very hard all around. You may have to repeat.

I was hesitant to remove old seal, after I removed, I lined up new seal, and the seal popped into the slots very easily. Easy repair, no tools, worked great. The seal takes about 24 hour to seat itself for a great fit.

For this repair, the following YouTube video was most helpful in showing how to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator model that I have: for some reason this site has deleted my video cite but it is the YouTube video cite that ends in 7HHH03SFdCA Next, because the electrical wiring harness part has changed since production, and the new ice maker part comes with two different harness' (you have to determine which one is most similar to the harness that you remove), take a lot of pictures of the old wiring harness before removing it. There are a lot of different wires that need to be reconnected. There was a prior post by "Greg from Aliso Viejo, CA" that I printed out and followed--that post was also very helpful.