A8RXCGFXW03 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

The fridge went warm and I noticed ice build-up on the freezer floor underneath the coils. I mistakenly thought that the defrost heater (or thermostat or timer) must have been the culprit. I used a voltmeter to test those components and chased a wild goose for quite sometime before realizing that the evaporator fan was not spinning and that it failed a test with the voltmeter. Replacing the fan easily fixed my problem! I later realized that the sheet of ice on the freezer floor indicated that the defrost cycle had been working. Were that not the case, the ice would have been all over the coils.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

The piece snapped right in with no problem. The fit was perfect.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

First i pulled the electrical plug from the socket so the refrigator was off than I removed 5 screws (3 of those holding the ice maker). pulled the icemaker toward the front and removed it I than took off the back of the freezer panel,(the back panel was removed by pulling the top of the panal towards me it came right out of the freezer) I removed an additional 2 screws holding the evaporator fan motor. Than I used pliers to squeeze the mounting bracket tabs (white tabs BOTTOM OF MOTOR BRACKET). I then disconnected the electrical FAN MOTOR PLUG and removed the motor. i than pulled the fan blade from the motor (fan blade is only a pressed onto the motor shaft.I than pressed the fan blade back unto the fan motor and reversed the above directions

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.