RISBS620RB Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

easy, step-by-step repair. replaced all parts that came with kit; no hastle. only issue was that "torx" head screwdriver was needed (which I had).

First remove srews from front icewater panel
Second pushed panel up to remove and disconect electric conection.
Third rmoved broke ice door and installed new one in holder frame.
Fourth reversed steps two and one.
Job cpompleted.

Removed 4 screws and disconnect the circuit board, replaced the broken door and reassembled the unit. Solenoid did not need to be replaced, only the ice door. About 15 minutes and about 90$ saved in labor.

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.

removed the panel to get to icemaker(4 screws), then removed the plug, then removed worn solenoid and replaced with
new one. Had to jiggle old solenoid to get out,
but not with much effort. Everything went back
into place effortlessly

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Since I wasn't sure if it was the Actuator Pad or Limit Switch, I just ordered and replaced them by following both repair videos posted on Parts Select website. Videos are exactly correct and SPOT ON! It's a very simple job! BTW: My wife is actually kinda mad I fixed it, she wants new appliances. But I gotta tell ya, the repair parts and instructions on website are so available and thorough, I really can't get rid of them! Too easy to fix and keep. I've used this site to fix my fridge, oven, and dishwasher. This site is the BEST! They've saved me hundreds of dollars in repairs and broken parts showing me the correct way to take them apart! Thank you!!!

Viewed the videos for both lower hinge replacement and door closer replacement. Took longer to unload the door and refrig of perishables than it did to repair the hinge/closer. Exactly like the videos - EXACTLY! Thank you PartSelect. You turned what would have been a $150 service call into a $16.00 parts bill! I WILL use you and your videos the next time something goes wrong on our appliances!

ordered a new shut-off valve. arrived in 5 days. installation had to wait a couple more day for i had to order a new compression nut. the reason i had to order a new nut was because the original nut was made of teflon and stripped easily when i tightened it to make a leak proof.joint. the new nut arrived in two days and was installed readily being that it was made of brass and consequently did not strip when i tightened to make a drip proof joint. finished in approximately twenty minutes' the video that this site has on the internet was of great value.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed 3 screws holding unit in place. Carefully disconnected the wire from the control face plate. removed existing ice dispense door and spring, disconnected lead from solenoid which controls ice dispenser door opening and closing. Removed 2 screws holding solenoid in place. Removed old solenoid and replaced with new one. Installed new ice dispenser door and spring. Replaced old actuator pad with new one and reassembled.
Repair was easy but unfortunately did not fix the problem. Subsequent tests indicate no power getting to the solenoid so I think I have a circuit board problem --

Removed approx. 5 phillips screws to access the flap from the outside of the freezer door and R & R'd the flap, then repaced the screws. Fairly simple installation. Most impressive was how easy it was to find the part here and the quick delivery.

Removed screws, removed parts, spring popped off, didn't know where it was actually at, had a difficult time getting the spring in the right place, (the directions were not that clear), put back together 6 times before I got it right.