WRS315SDHW06 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Replaced the Ice Bin Auger,I ordered from PartSelect,which had much thicker housing and fins than the original .You remove the clip from the end of the shaft and a nylon nut which is a left hand which is opposite threads from most nuts.Its a good idea to take a picture of how the blades and spacers are ,because if not put back in the same direction their will be no crushed ice.It now works better and quiter than when it was new.

I remove the shelf above of the one that needing repair as well the one that required repair. I carefully place the white shelf frame into the rubber seals on the glass . Thirdly placed everything together.

Following a you tube video, I followed the instructions. However, the old switch did not come out as easy as the video showed. They showed inserting the putty knife at the bottom of the switch to pop out the switch. However, in my refrigerator, the flex tab was at the top. After I inserted the putty knife at the top of the switch it came out easily. I removed the broken switch and inserted the new switch with no further issues.

Disassembled freezer icemaker rear panel and replaced defective part.

Remove the screws and detach the cover. loose the spring and unscrew backwards the plastic nut to release the drum. Un ensemble the blades and release the drum and the deflector replace new parts and ensemble again all the parts.

Take it apart, replace with the new one, put it back together. So simple even a democrat girl could do it.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

i used the instructions that came with the part and it was really simple. thank you very much. it saved me a HUGH repair bill.we use alot of crushed ice and the part shipped in 2 days. thank you.C.D.L.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Replaced drum and reassembled unit.

I followed the instructions on your video.

Removed existing fan. Access wasn't too dificult. Motor access was easy to access and remove. Disconnected old fan and the replacement part fit perfectly. Runs perfectly.

Replaced motor it was not issue. Now I am stuck with a $300 motor I cannot return. When I say will not dispense ice everyone thinks it does not make ice. Auger does not turn to push ice out the door. Reason I thought it was auger motor when you push lever on door the auger turns about one eight of a turn. So, it would seem it is getting signal and power. Cannot find any articles on this specific issue. If anyone has a suggestion, please share.