KRFF302EBS04 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Hook just clips right into the channel in seconds.

I removed the crisper pans, installed the new rail and then installed the new bins. Very easily done--I was finished in 10 minutes

The glass shelf sits on top of the crisper housing. That was the problem since when I turned the housing over to clean, the glass fell off. I just had to set the new part on to the housing and it was fixed.
I do want to comment on how easy it was to find the part on your website, how reasonable the price and the quick delivery. Thanks!

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Motor evaporate. Replacement. Just like the video and it worked out perfect. Refrigerator works great now.

Initially I thought it was the valve that provides water to the ice maker. Days prior to go bad, it was making intermittent noises while filling the ice maker. I couldn't tell if it was the ice maker or not. It doesn't have a way to test it or reset button. So I decided and bought both parts, the valve and the ice maker unit. The installation was pretty straight forward. It takes ~30 minutes to replace. The ice maker ended up being the defective part. The one I got is a little bit different because it have a ON/OFF switch while the original did not. But everything else was exactly the same. Regarding the valve, it was good, so now I have a spare one in case it fails in the future. I'm glad I found this website to get the parts.

with the freezer working I knew the compressor was working. I confirmed that the actuator door in the refrigerator was working but no air was blowing out. The hardest part was removing all the freezer drawer components and the ice maker so I could remove the panel in the back covering the evaporator motor. A quick resistance check of the motor confirmed no continuity in the motor. Take your time so that you dont break any of the snap in pieces. The motor I received did not look like the one I was replacing, but in fit in place and bolted right in. They provided an adapter wire to connect the wiring. All in all it was a fairly easy job. The video I followed was very helpful.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Removed rear cover, removed fan and than drip tray. install new tray and reassemblied

SIMPLY REPLACED THEM

The glide was very easy to put on; however it is easiest to put in the front screw first, due to the thickness of the glide. Pretty easy!

Followed video

Removed 1 small 6.5mm bolt (SAVE!), slid the old part up, disconnected the wire harness, tossed it aside for the kids to apparently play swords with, then connected new wire harness, slid new part down to snap into place, secured with same little bolt and went and played pirates with my 3yr old.