ART308FFDB07 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old and installed new compartment door by hand.

Using a screwdriver

Remove food from freezer shelf and ice maker back panel4 screws remove old motor replace with new motor reinstall all removed parts. Plug in and fan instantly came on refrigerator working great since

Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

Take screws out pull panel out unconnect the part connect new one and your done

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Like you video

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

$80 part motor fan replaced saved me $1000 or more on new fridge.

Called in and you guys helped out
You guys are the best.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

After left side track broke 3 times and then center track also broke, I got tired of buying replacements (even though they are easy to install and not very expensive). So I bought a tube of plastic epoxy and a bit of fiberglass cloth and reinforced the plastic that the (#8 x 1/2 inch) screws go through (where it breaks) on ALL 3 tracks, then redrilled holes, added a washer, and used #8 x 5/8 inch screws). Maybe these wiil last.

Put gaskets in the car dash to get warm (90 outside), Pulled off old gasket and brought new one in and just inserted it into the slot around door. Was a little buckled but it straightened out after a few hours. Was very easy!