WRF535SWHZ05 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

you need to take the deli drawer out, make sure your flat head screw driver is large enough for the head of the screw as screwing into the plastic is a bit difficult. Other than that there are 2 screws and its pretty easy.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Receive the parts. Review the video. Thought I can do this got down to the screw and I didn’t have is a ratchet small enough to remove the screw so I had to call D.O.C appliances to do the install Michael was here less than 15 minutes

I first removed the door to the freezer (my frig has a bottom freezer) by loosening the 4 screws and lifting the door up and off. Then, because I'm stubborn, I chose not to remove either of the basket/drawers. It took a little bit of effort to fit my arms/hands in there, but I was able to remove the bottom screw to the old icemaker, and loosen the two top screws. (And disconnect the wiring harness.) I could then lift the old icemaker up and off. Putting the new icemaker in was pretty easy-- just slide it down over the two top screws and connect the wiring harness. The hardest part was getting the bottom screw back in! Because I didn't remove the baskets/drawers, I had very little room to work, and I had to "feel" for where that bottom screw went (even used a little mirror to help me). I could have just left this screw out, as the icemaker was sitting in there quite securely. But I kept at it, and after about 20 minutes, I was able to line up the screw with the hole, balanced on the tip of the screwdriver, and get it screwed in. Total repair took about 45 minutes. And no more leaky ice maker!

Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.

I replaced the control board first. The freezer back panel frosted up and the refrigerator warmed up again. Then I force (short option vs long) defrosted the refrigerator. However, a few days later the defrost issue came back again. Force defrost no longer worked, though likely due to a severe ice build up behind the freezer panel. I ordered the wire harness. I took off the freezer door (loosen four screws only), removed the tray rails, ice maker, thermostat housing and vent mounted on the freezer panel. The rails and the vent are a bit tricky to remove since no directions exist. I then removed the fan above the coils and then removed the wire harness. Installing the new harness is easy except that I had to modify one of the ground connections for it to mount properly. I tested the unit for 72 hours. The defrost cycle eventually kicked in (dripping onto a pan and sizzling sound). I then reinstalled all parts. No frost build up. Good to go!

This took 30 seconds. Lift out shelf glass, remove broken pieces, snap new part into place.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

take the old one out replace with new once - no instructions required, no tools needed

Pulled the broken pantry door off, and snapped the new door in place. Vry simple.

Followed the video and installed the new Jazz board. The board cam in 1 piece which had to be separated into two pieces, but the scored area on the board made it less intimidating. At the same time I replaced the two incandescent lamps in the refrigerator area with LED lamps. Getting the housing for the control board apart was the most difficult part, installing the replacement board was a breeze.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

After removing the shelves and drawers to gain access to the End Cap unit. I removed the screws and detached the unit which was a little tricky without any actual drawing details. After removing the unit I had to undo the plastic temperature control arm without breaking same. I then transferred the shelve draw slide and reconnected the control arm assembly to the new End Cap unit . At that point it was a simple installation, the drawer works better then new. Note: I did find some loose packing material behind the End Cap assembly unit that might have caused the failure of the drawer and door mechanism during its original factory fabrication. Other than that the project was a complete success. Dick S.

Took off old cover 3 screws...removed metal track and 2 other plastic sliding bars for air flow..put on new cover and carefully put back deli cover on plastic pins..easy fix...lousy design by maytag again! Thanks to PartSelect easy and prompt service and delivery!

take out two nut driver screws remove piece, take off track two philips head screws. transfer temp control rod, really easy then put track back on and install piece. probable took as long to remove the two veg crispers and glass top. this is a very easy fix. i did notice that the pin on the original was about 3/8 of an inch forward so flapper door did not quite line up and im sure caused the pin to snap off. the replacement part, the pin is exactly the same position as the other side. i believe the original was defective from the mfgr.