WRSA71CIHZ01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

Perhaps a helpful hint:

When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.

LG

I turned the water and electricity off for the refrigerator.
(not sure if this is necessary but is safer)
Remove the ice bucket.
Cover the Ice auger with a hand towel to catch any screws which my get dropped.
Remove four Philips screws holding plastic cover to inside of the door. there are no clip/snaps to worry about but on/off switch needs to be un plugged. Remove cover.
Remove two nut head screws holding old ice maker.
Remove wiring harness from ice maker and lift ice maker up and out. There are two tabs on the door.
Unplug the wiring harness from the ice maker..

Installation: Press the wiring harness into clips on the new ice maker. Install ice maker onto door insuring it is over the tabs on door and the holes for nut screws line up. Plugging the wiring harness in and install two screws.

Plug on/off wiring onto switch and press plastic cover onto inside of door. Take care that it fits inside of rubber door seal. Install four philips screws.
Remove hand towel and install ice bucket making sure the ice maker is switched on. Close door.
Turn on water and electricity.

This took me 25 min. and I am sure would go faster if I had had instructions.

My refrigerator took awhile before it started to make cubes but has been working like new ever since.
This task is easy go for it.

I removed the ice bucket,the gear is located under the ice bucket and engages when ice bucket sits on it and turns the tray for ice to fall in the shute,2 screws to remove and the gear comes off and I put the new one on and put the screws back,very easy to do, total time 5 minutes,repair man wanted to charge $114 for the part and $100 for labor,I did it all for $25 thru this site,I love this site,it gsaved me alot of money,thanks partselect.,

Cut a 1/4 inch off both lines and connect. Changed water filter. Found the water filter at Home Depot for 1/2 The price. Look befor you buy.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed nuts and bolts in order to remove ice maker unit, and 4 screws from the surrounding shell to get to said icemaker unit. I'd say it was a 15 minute job, but that's kind of a lie. It took me about a week of procrastination. And then 15 minutes to remove one unit and then put in the new unit. It's very easy unless you're really lazy. In which case it's still easy, the hard part is getting outta your recliner.

Removed lower back cover of refrigerator; isolated water at wall, removed existing dual solenoid valve and installed new replacement valve assembly. Replaced back cover.

Unfortunately, this DID NOT correct the problem. Frustrated to spend that kind of money on something that was not needed.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Took off the cover, pulled out the old filter, inserted the new one and closed the door.

Turned off power. Placed all frozen food in insulated containers. Removed all interior door parts to access ice maker, then removed the old ice maker. Dried everything with heat gun to make sure there were no ice obstructions. Installed new ice maker, interior door cover and ice bin. Turned on power, replaced food items shortly thereafter. It seems to be operating just fine.

Opened the freezer door and inserted 2 shelves.

My icemaker is on the freezer door. Open the freezer door and remove the ice bucket and turn ice maker swith off. There is a plastic cover you need to remove just 4 screws then work cover a little and it will pull out. You need to disconnect the wire connector for the on/off switch for icemaker. set cover aside. Now the ice cube tray is exposed. On the right side there is another wire connection unplug this also. There is a small wire cable on top of ice tray it just pops off tray and stays there. Under ice tray remove 2 screws and lift up and out to remove tray. to install new tray align clips on top and screw holes on bottom and reattache 2 screws. Now refit the small wire cable on top to new tray and also reconnect the wire connector on the right. To reinstall cover reconnect the on/off wire connector and push cover back on. Make sure cover is on the inside of door seal. Reinstall the 4 screws turn the on/ff switch to on rinstall the ice bucket and close the door your done.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!