WRF540CWHZ02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Received gasket. Checked color and size. Because this unit is 33 inches wide one door is 3 inches narrower than the other. Removed shelves from door to provide more room to work. Took 15 seconds to pull out old seal and 1 minute to install the new one. Checked to make sure center sealing flap were on the center side of door. Started in upper corners, worked my way around the perimeter pressing in in with my fingers.
Took longer to R&R and wash shelves than to replace door seal.
VERY EASY

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

I removed the right side endcap and rear thermostat piece behind the pull out drawer. It was fairly quick, 3 screws on the exterior of the end cap and one screw holding in the drawer thermostat. The worst part was getting the thermostat control that connects the drawer thermostat control to the rear thermostat. After playing with the control rod I was able to to snap it in successfully to the endcap with the proper rod connection. The rear thermostat goes in first, then the endcap. Quick and easy. For $23 it would have cost over $150 to call a repair guy ($120 call charge plus parts). Thanks.

Loosen the 2 mounting screws on the top about 2 turns; take the one mounting screw on the bottom all of the way out. The top part of the ice maker drops down on the loose top screws. That holds the ice maker while installing the bottom screw. No need to shut off water to the ice maker, just shut off electricity to refrigerator.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?

Access back of unit, lower left corner. Remove wire capacitor retention clip. Unplug cold capacitor, plug in replacement, reinstall wire retention clip, test.

Got the right part on the second try but am so happy I did it myself. Easy install 3 screws and a plug. A little hard to reach in bottom drawer freezer but making great ice now.

removed the freezer door, removed the two shelves and removed three screws from the icemaker, unplugged the wiring harnest. Installed the new icemaker in reverse procedure.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Remove lower freezer door from mounting frame (4 screws). Remove inner shelving and shelving brackets, Total of six screws, three on each side on lower brackets and 4 screws, 2 on each side on upper brackets. Remove ice cube maker (4 screws). Remove thermometer frame from back cover and slide thermometer out of frame. Remove 4 screws from back cover and remove cover. Slide thermometer through hole in back cover. Remove 4 screws from evaporator motor housing. Gently pull plastic fan off of motor shaft. Remove motor from housing and install new motor. Reinstall all parts in the order removed.

My unit was a bottom mounted freezer, the door assembly and side out rack unit took more time then the repair. Once you take the back panel off it is just a matter of unplugging and two screws. Easier to pull fan mounting housing out to replace motor. Be careful its all plastic, pot off fan blades off shaft, pot out old motor, pot in new motor, slide fan blades back on shaft, make sure you get the mounting housing behind the duck that goes up to your refrigerator section, two screws and plug in connections and your done. Put back panel, rack and door assembly back in and you are friggen again, once you plug it in of course.

Repair was simple and just as described by several others on this site! From finding the part, ordering, quick shipping and instructions, PartsSelect made this job a breeze to complete.

Once the part arrived, which was very quickly BTW..all I had to do was remove the old filter and then just screw the new one into place....Now I just happen to be both female and blonde but was able to get the job done in less than 15 minutes (that includes opening the box) and with very little water dripping from the old filter!!! Looks like I could work as the Maytag repair woman soon!!