WRT311FZDZ01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I turned breaker off to fridge, it was easier than pulling fridge out in camper. I took 4 screws out of back panel that revealed the evap fan, took 2 more screws out to take fan bracket off. Unplugged fan plug. Took fan blade off the non working evap motor and put it on the new evap motor. Put all the screws back in the reverse order and flipped the breaker and air started circulating.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

$80 part motor fan replaced saved me $1000 or more on new fridge.

Called in and you guys helped out
You guys are the best.

I screwed the bracket in. How ever the placement of the screw made it impossible to use a small wrench. I had to manually tighten it. Having a screw head would have been better

Remove food from freezer shelf and ice maker back panel4 screws remove old motor replace with new motor reinstall all removed parts. Plug in and fan instantly came on refrigerator working great since

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

After describing my problem PartSelect consultant emmidiately diagnost the problem and I ordered Evaporator Fan Motor. Along with purches order confirmation I got video how to install a new motor.
The hardest part was to connectthe ground wire becase space in that area was verylimited. Otherwise it was just like a walk in the park.
As soon as I installed motor and turned on the refrigirator, everything start working properly.
Thank you PartSelect, you sved me hundreds of dollars.

The problem with the replacement part is that it didn't fit cleanly and doesn't slide well with the existing drawer.
We were disappointed.

Remove screws on the rear wall of the freezer. Pull the rear wall out and this gives you access to the evaporator fan assembley. Remove wires to the fan and to the defrost element to be able to move the rear wall to a position where you can work on the evaporator fan motor. The fan motor is held into place by a plastic bracket that clips onto the reverse side of the freezer rear wall. Careful not to break the plastic clips that hold the fan in place as they are brittle. The fan blade friction fits on to the fan motor shaft and is a little difficult to remove. Assemble in reverse order.

When I did not see instructions on how to replace the broken shelf that holds the meat drawer, I was afraid it would be difficult but after seeing how the broken piece placement was placed all I had to do was slide it off and place the new one. No problem, Thank you!!!

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!