GAFZ21XXRK02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I'm a 65 year old widow on a limited SS income, so I needed to get my refrigerator fixed as cheaply as possible. Partselect's troubleshooting guides took me right to the problem. I ordered the part on a Friday and it arrived the next Tuesday. It probably took me a little longer than it would a repairman, but I did it myself with just a screwdriver and a nut driver and it only cost me $45 instead of the $200 plus it costs my daughter to have someone else replace hers two years ago. Always remember to unplug amy electrical device before removing the covers or attempting any repair. All I had to do was remove the lower back cover on the refrigerator and, using the partselect diagram, locate the casing that covered the start relay and the overload switch on the left side of the compressor. I popped the casing off with the screwdriver, pulled the relay off (it's sits on two prongs), and remove the red terminal wire from the relay. Installation of the new relay is the reverse steps of the removal. Thanks, Partselect! I will be doing business with you again if the need ever arises.

Looked up the refrigerator model number, found parts break down and ordered wheel assy...thought it was the wrong but wheel size was right...read the instructions (good thing) and found out you had to slide entire bottom panel out 1/2 inch to access a hidden pin...did as the instructions said, slid out the bottom panel, found pin as advertised, removed pin, broken part fell out, replaced the wheel assembly, repinned, slid the bottom panel in (a bit more harder than getting it out), replaced all screws and was completed in about 40 -50 minutes. Good thing it came with instructions!!

poured boiling hot water into drain; removed most ice with hair dryer. Clips(2) positions the defrost tray & drain under the freezer condenser. A "home-made" coil of 18g copper wire inserted into the drain hole, & secured to the defrost heater further prevents the drain from iceing shut!

Replaced the "Run Capacitor. The non-rythmic clicking associated with the compressor coming on continues. The problem was obviously not the Run Capacitor". I don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phillip

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After watching the video it was a snap. Defrosting the freezer took the longest time. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Once the freezer compartment was clear of ice the removal and installation were a step by step procedure which the video showed in detail. It's been about a week since I installed the bimetal defrost thermostat and it seems to be working like new. Sure glad I researched this problem on the internet instead of calling a very expensive repairman! Thanks partselect. Com!!!

First I called my friend Robert in Kissimmee, Fl to have an idea regarding the problem because I had never serviced a fridge before. Then he suggested that I check with PartSelect on the Web. Then PartSelect repair videos showed me everything. I followed step-by-step but the problem persisted. I finally realized that the airflow conduit between the freezer and the fridge was clogged with ice. I then proceeded to remove the ice underneath the coil on the aluminum cover and Bingo. The problem was in fact the ice. Well, I only spent $33 dollars for the non-necessary Bimetal Defrost Thermostat. I learned a great deal from that repair.

Pulled up part select video on u-tube. Followed instructions on dissambly of top freezer and found condensor freezing up blocking air from refrigerator. Checked timer to make sure it was good. Next checked continuity on heater to make sure it was good. Last checked bi-metal thermostat for continuity while cold. Found Bi-metal part to be defective (also rubber in top of was popped up which is a sign of a bad part). Simply ordered new part from Part Select, received in 2 days and replaced Bi-metal and melted ice with hair dryer and reassembled freezer. While waiting on part you can still use refrigerator by melting ice so air can get to refrigerator. I put a towel in bottom of freezer to catch water. Greg W. in Ga.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

took shelf off of freezer, took ice cube maker out, took back panel off changed defrost thermostat.then re-assembled.

We followed de video that made it very clear to us. Thank you! It's been working great since...

First I entered my model #, then picked the symptom, then went with the odds when presented with the likely suspects. The run capacitor, and bi-metal defrost timer had the highest % of guilt. Most of the time was spent defrosting the coils with a hair dryer. The run capacitor took 3 minutes to remove and replace. I snipped out the old defrost timer and used butt connectors to wire up the new one. The old timer flunked the continuity test when placed in salted ice water. The freezer/fridge runs like new, for about $66. The run capacitor was probably ok but I left the new one in, being too lazy to send it back. "Part Select" was a great partner in helping to fix my machine.

the repair it good and easy ,vo helper to do it.

Instructions came with the part I ordered and they were very easy to follow. Basically you have to remove the cardboard cover from the back. Then you remove the four screws at the bottom (2 front, 2 back) that hold the bottom plate on. My husband tilted frig and held it while I put a block(4" x 1/2") under the bottom outside frame (not the bottom plate). You can see a ridge on the frame which is where I placed the block. My husband braced the frig the whole time I did the repair just to ensure it didn't fall on me even though it was blocked. The bottom plate didn't slide back at first. I took a flat screw driver and hammer and slightly tapped the bottom plate through the screw hole that secures the bottom plate to the frame. I tapped 2 or 3 times...gently each tap...until the bottom plate dropped down. Which was the 1/2" noted in the instructions. I then was able to access the front wheel, remove the pin and replace with the new one. We replaced both front wheels so I did not replace the bottom plate until we replaced the second wheel. We removed the block and tilted the frig to the opposite side, blocked then I replaced the second wheel. Once that was done I removed the block, my husband let the frig down gently and I went to the back and tapped the bottom plate forward. It didn't quite want to go back in place but with patience it finally and then was able to put all screws back in. Donna

followed the video instruction from part select web site