ED22DKXDN01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair consisted of lifting up the drawer cover and replacing it. Why the 60 minutes to do that? It took 58 minutes to clean the refrigerator.

I FOLLOWED A U TUBE VIDEO. IT WAS ALMOST PERFECT FOR MY SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

"Popped it in".

bought a new crisper drawer

Awesome

left the shelf/vevetable in place. used pliers or adjustable wrench to remove broken peice. a standard adjustable wrench will remove this peice, it has flat surfaces to grab. make a 1/4 turn going upward. use a flat tip screwdriver to remove old part. discard old pard. insert new part into shelf support hole flush or fully into the hole. While applying a slight amount of force to keep part flush against the wall make a 1/4 bownward part is self locking. I think you only get one chance so take it easy.

Removed the top plastic hinge cover, remove (2) bolts from top hinge. Lifted door up and off of lower hinge, removed both halves of door cam, replaced cam halves and re-installed door. Super easy and effective. Door now opens and closes (stays closed) properly.

First, imagine the frustration - I want an apple.... can barely open the drawer. Need carrots - the struggle. Celery? Wondering if I can do without..... the drawer's plastic has broken along where it slides along the guide rails, and it was a pain to open and close the drawer. First, as is my custom I went to Amazon, but couldn't find the part. There, however, I read a useful customer review that told me how to find the correct item, so I did that, input the part number into google, and VOILA - I got to this website. Excitedly, I input my credit card information and waited with eager anticipation (and a bit of trepidation - would it be the correct size?) for the drawer to arrive. A short time later, I found a large box at my front door. With joy, I took some scissors and opened the box, and then carefully used the scissors to cut the binding strap that was holding the protective cardboard wrap. My new drawer!! I gave it a quick clean, and then opened my fridge door all the way (this is an important step). I pulled out the old, broken drawer, and carefully inserted the new. It fit perfectly!! This took about 15 seconds. I then took those apples, carrots, and celery (and a pomegranate and some lettuce) from the old, broken drawer and placed them tenderly into the new drawer. I slid the drawer closed, and then shut the fridge door. Mission accomplished! Last step was to throw the old broken drawer into the garbage - this was a very simple process as well.

The new thermostat assembly installed quite easily, just a couple of screws, but the thermostat probe however was kind of a pain in the rear. The probe is about 3 feet long and you have to remove a plastic sleeve from the old part and re-install on the new probe, it fits very tight and takes some time to do. Overall it was a very easy fix.

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.

I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.

I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.

After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.

** Side Notes **

Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.

** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **

If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.

After spending $250 on repair by calling appliance repair professional who changed relay in the fridge, the problem was not solved. I had to manually turn the switch off and on again to make sure my fridge would maintain its temperature. I read some similar problems on this web site, watched instalation video and decided to give it a try. Part came in very quick and it took me (female) 45 minutes to install the new part and refregirator worked like a champ. I would never call professional again until I try fixing the problem myself.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.