ED25PM Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I removed the plastic portion to get to the switch and wires. I removed the old switch by disconnecting the two wires and pushing it out of its setting.

I discovered the old switch only had 2 prongs where the new switch had 3. Once I figured which 2 of the 3 prongs would light the lightbulb,
I then connected the two wires to the correct prongs of the new switch. I pushed the new switch into its setting and replaced the plastic portion on the refrigerator. Voila, success. The refrigerator door now comes on when its door is opened.

Thanks for the having the part and getting it at our door step in 3 days.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Pulled the fridge (KitchenAid side by side) out from the wall for the 1st time in a few years and dealt with those issues. Followed the instructions which were pretty clear. I was lucky enough that I did not need to retro fit any of the connections - it was really a straight forward replacement. The ice maker and the water dispenser have never worked better. Took about an hour.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

Removed ice bucket and discovered the auger drum was broken.

After I received the new part, I removed the front screws of the ice bucket, removed the clip that held the auger and other parts together, and then slide each part off the auger until I got to the broken drum.

Assembly was in reverse except you must pay attention where all the spacers and ice crusher bars go back into the original position. This was the most difficult step.

Works great now, crushed and cubed ice dispenses thru the door like new.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I Have a Sub Zero refrigerator, but has a Wirlpool ice maker. The ice maker has been repaired 4 times in 2009!!! A complete new ice maker one time! The repair man repaced the double outlet valve three times in 4 months. Then they had to but in a in line water filter. This solved the problem for six months. I thought the water filter would last at lease a year. It will now be changed every six months. For some reason I get minor amounts of dirt,in my water. If a small speck gets to the double outlet valve it causes it to "weep" and the tube that fills the ice tray freezes up. Since I have watched so many times as my ice maker was repaired, it was easy to diconnect the faulty valve with 1/4 inch wrench and the water filter. Replace with the new valve and water filter. Make sure the connections are tite. Turn the water back on and in 24 hours you have ice.

1. PUsh the Lock button so the water will not run.
2.Remove the screw holding the nozzle.
3. Remove the Grill
4. Disconnect the black water tube. Pull the female part of the union off the old tube and hold it for the new tube.
5. PUll it the tube out from the nozzle end.
6. Snake the new tube into the hole and shove it through until it comes out the door hinge port at the bottom of the door.
7. Continue pushing and pulling the tube until the nozzle is in position.
8.Test fit the new tube and cut a short piece off to fit properly.
9. Slide the female part of the union onto the new tube. Insert it onto the union and tighten.
10. Insert the screw that holds the nozzle in place and tighten.
11. Push the on unlock button and fill a glass with water.
12. Check for leaks. If no leaks reinstall the grill.
Job done.