3XKGN7050F01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the screw holding the nozzle in place, and removed the other end of the line under the refrigerator to give me some slack. Then I clipped the nozzle off of the black line and taped the new line to the end I cut off with electrical tape. Then I just snaked it down through the hole with me pulling from the bottom and my wife pushing from the top and reattached both ends. Make sure you don't use too much tape becaue it won't fit throught the hole at the bottom. I taped them together at an angle so not to make tape too thick. Also, you can snake it back from the bottom if the tape breaks and the old line comes out of the fridge.

Just like they told me to do.Insert bottom then sides.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

As cookbook authors and publishers, my husband and I depend on our appliances. When our icemaker would no longer work, it was imperative that we repair it as quickly and ecomonically as possible. We had used PartSelect.com earlier to order a part to repair our Jenn-Air stove top and had great results. So, rather than paying a repairman four times or more the cost of the part, we ordered the part and my husband installed it. It took less than 30 minutes to remove the broken auger and install the new one. THANKS PartSelect.com -- we'll use you for all appliance parts needs.

Part would not fit straight in. Used universal joint on end of extension to reach screw rather that disassemble front. Managed to slip the paddel just far enough to one side and angled to snap ice guid on and then slipped paddel back into place. Used a dab of candle stickum on the screw head to heep it in the socket and then inserted in door. $7 part, 15min and saved $$$$$$ over a service call;)

Technician at ASK suggested replacing ice maker. Ordered new ice maker(prompt delevery)then noticed it came without wire arm and white platic "flag". Ordered arm and "flag", replaced all old with new and seems to be doing well. Perhaps all I needed was the plastic "flag" on the limit arm wire. Will never know. The new icemaker wiring had short wires and a connector. Old ice maker had no connector so the short wires were removed and the old wires plugged into the ice maker. Mirror was required in order to see the side wall mounting screws. Very narrow work area, tiny freezer side.

Just took out old crisper cover frame and replaced with new one. No tools required.

Have not installed yet as I'm on a quick TX-FL-TX turnaround. Bought and received the part in 24 hours...great. Order contained no instructions. I could probably figure it out myself just have not attempted yet.

The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.

I removed the screws that attached the drum housing to the bin. I detached the auger & removed the broken drum assembly, turning the auger to the right, opposite what I thought it should be. I slipped the end of the auger into the new bin coupler & put it in place at the rear of the bin. Next I slipped the auger drum into place & tightened it to the left with a socket wrench. I screwed the drum housing to the bin, put the bin back into the freezer & I now have ice through the door again. Easy repair even for me, a 60+ woman.

Googled with question about how to get to the repair as there were no screws on the faceplate. Found I had to lift the faceplate at the bottom and pry out. Was kind of hard to get the long spindle back through the ears of the bracket holder along with getting the spring of the door lined up for the spindle to pass through to the other side. Finally got it right and then just put it all back together. Frustrating at first but I had to get it done as my wife was tired of having to take large clumps of ice out of the ice tray..three years wait for the repair. That door being open let warm air in and let the ice melt just enough to stick together in a clump. All is well now. Longer you wait the more appreciative she is however. ha

Watched a video on how to disassemble the old bucket and reassemble the new one. Piece of cake. Thank you for the part and how to video.

Henry

This was a very simple job. Remove the top Hinge bracket, a total of 4 screws, lifted the door off the bottom hinge, removed the bottom hinge set up, 2 screws, replaced it, and attached the new bottom black door cam, lifted the door back onto the bottom hinge and aligned the top hinge, and reinserted the screws, and Ta Da, The door works like a new refrigerator door. 15 to 30 min tops. I did not even have to take the refrigerator items out of there door holder.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

The nozzle of the water dispenser broke. I ordered the part which arrived the next day. I did not use the white line, only the black. I turned the water off, then I removed the screw under the broken nozzle and cut off it off from the line. I took a new screw and cut off the top with pliers, then twisted half of a screw in the old line and inserted the other half in the new line and pulled the line from the bottom corner of the refrigerator and connected it to the white line under the grid. Screwed the new nozzle back to the lever, replaced the grid and turned water on.