WRT18G4AW2 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

The plastic ends are held to the retainer bar by small metal tabs in the retainer bar. Pry up the tabs to remove the broken part. Insert the new part and crimp the tabs back down with a pliers. Couldn't be easier.

I easily removed the shelf, cleaned it, removed one screw, adjusted a tab that was bent, then installed new side rail with the screw that was removed and put back the shelf and storage bin. Everything worked perfectly. I must have saved $100 by doing it myself.

No big deal. Placed the order, got the replacement. Put them in and that was that! The great thing is, I have a perfect refrigerator for new renters. It would have been a lost rent without these easy to get parts. Thank you.

Used a small screwdriver to disconnect the left side rail from and replaced with the new left side rail. Everything went smooth and from start to finish, replaced the piece in about 3 minutes. Works great now!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.

I ordered two of the long refrigerator shelf door bars and cut one of them to fit the freezer shelf door because that ready-made door bar was very expensive. The fit after cutting and notching to receive the end caps went very well.

Turned off fridge circuit breaker
Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler.
Removed shelves from freezer
Removed ice maker
Removed 2 hex head screws
Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection.
Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker
Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge.
Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer.
Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover.
Cut wires near thermostat and removed
Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place.
Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected.
Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover.
Reinstalled ice maker
Reinstalled shelves.
Put food back in
Turned circuit breaker back on.

Very easy. Watched a video on your site prior to getting the glass replacement. Removed the crisper drawers. Placed the glass in the front and placed it down. Took just a few minutes. Love your site and will come back again when needed. Thank-you.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

Just put 2 screws on top and one at the bottom and you are done in less than 5 mins

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Emptied the shelf. Took out the shelf. Screwed in the one screw for the support rail. Put shelf back in. Put drawer back in. Works like a charm.

easy. took glass tray that held meat draw out. unscrewed old rail screw new one in. put glass try back in frig. put meat try back in.

Most of my time was spent removing food items from the shelf that supported the rails. Once that was done, a quick removal of the screw, replace the left support rail and re-installing the screw. Done. I wish all of my repairs were so easy!